In a city with an abundance of Italian and Latin flavors, it's surprising that these cuisines don't intermingle more often. At Miranda, on North 9th & Berry in Williamsburg (across from Hotel Delmano and Silent H), the husband-wife team of Sasha Rodriguez and Mauricio Miranda fuse mixed heritages and culinary experiences into grains, appetizers, and entrees with sauces both ragu and mole.

The dining room is cozy, with a moderate sound level and low light emanating from candles and incandescent lanterns; service is attentive, informative, and extremely friendly. Of the drinks, the red house sangrias (chock full of fruit) sounded most quenching for a hot summer day, though a moderate wine list also offers a dozen or options by the bottle or the glass.

Appetizers are called "small plates," and of the greenery in this section, verdolagas (a sweet leafy vegetable in the watercress family) makes the basis of a fantastic salad. The leaves are topped with grilled asparagus, tomatoes, thinly sliced jicama, ricotta, and a subtle chipotle vinaigrette. Gazpacho, another refreshing starter, offers welcome hints of both smoke and pepper, but is otherwise unexceptional.

Pastas are available in appetizer and entree sizes, but the appetizer is the better bargain; on first glance the portions were nearly identical. The wide-stripped pappardelle makes a fitting host for a thick mole poblano ragu with bits of braised short ribs sticking to the pasta's skin. The garganelli, a ziti-shaped egg pasta, is coated in sweet peas and a heavy sauce born out of spicy chorizo, perfect for swiping up with leftover appetizer bread.

While easy to stroll out on a full stomach without dessert, our waiter dropped complimentary cucumber-lime ices at our table with the check. A sublime note to end on: The cucumber cools the palate, while the lime adds just enough sweet to keep you satisfied.

Miranda is located at 80 Berry St. (near N. 9th) and open for dinner daily and brunch on Sunday. 718-387-0711