Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings us to Western New York, or rather, brings Western New York to Brooklyn.

THE VIBE
Buffalo's Famous, which opened a few weeks ago in Ditmas Park, would not feel out of place on the "drunk-food street" adjacent to any campus in Western New York.

There's a wide orange counter with about five or six stools facing the milkshake machines. There's a more narrow ledge on the opposite wall, at which you can stand and wolf down your starchy food. You order at the register, either to stay or to go, and wait for someone to call your name. It can take a little while, but they're working on it.

And because the place celebrates all things Western New York (well... it's food and sports teams, anyway), there's as much Bills and Sabres gear as can possibly fit in such a small space, as well as stacks of regional-brand mustards and sodas and such.

But make no mistake: this is not the money-grab marketing ploy of nostalgia carpetbaggers. Co-owners John Marren and Matthew Fortune are Nickel City expats who have clearly put a lot of love into the project, and it shows in the attention to detail, in the overwhelming friendliness of the atmosphere, and, most importantly, in the quality of the food.

THE BITES
Buffalo's Famous has wings on the menu, of course, and they are excellent: the battered skin is crisp, the meat plentiful and juicy, the whole package messy with vinegary hot sauce. And though the accompanying carrot and celery sticks are nothing special (are they ever?), the blue cheese dip is chunky and wonderfully tangy.

But there are lots of great wings in this town. A first-rate Beef on Weck, on the other hand, is a much more exotic beast. The sandwich they serve you here is piled high with roast beef, nearly but not quite soggy with salty jus and a peppy horseradish sauce, the kummelweck roll speckled with requisite caraway seeds and crystals of salt. Even with its too-well-done meat, this was better than what a restaurant made for me out in Geneseo a couple of months ago.

The other big winner of my two nights of Western New York feasting was the "Famous Plate," which is what they call their version of Nick Tahou of Rochester's copyrighted Garbage Plate. There's a bit of a choose-your-own-adventure thing going on here, but my combo of french fries, cool macaroni salad, hot meat sauce, various other condiments, and a superb Sahlen's hot dog hit all the right notes.

The Hamburger, which they serve sub-style, has potential: the flavors are bold and the toppings fresh and sprightly, but the sandwich was ultimately undone by overcooking of the meat. The Potato and Spinach Pierogies (the only hint of green on the menu!) definitely tasted good—appropriate given this a basket of deep-fried doughy dumplings dipped in sour cream and eaten with sauerkraut.

And for dessert, there's Perry's Ice Cream, available in six flavors. Though when combined with each other, or maybe a banana, there are 50 different varieties of milk shake, each one of which is listed separately on a big board. Perry's, alas, is one of those beloved regional favorites that doesn't quite pull off the transition to the big city (unlike Graeter's from Cincinnati, which is sublime), where we have so many outstanding options from which to choose. It's fine, mostly just kind of bland, and my Chocolate Strawberry Milkshake was a bit more enjoyable than my Chocolate and Coffee cone, but you can find better if you want.

Another Western New York classic, PJ's Crystal Beach Logonberry drink, is also available here, and it's a weird juice/soda hybrid that tastes a lot better than you might suspect just from looking at it. Worth a try, if you like to try things, which I do.

THE VERDICT
Buffalo's Famous is a solid casual neighborhood spot that, especially if you stick with the core Western New York stuff, offers really satisfying food whether you're drunk, stoned, or, in my case, 100% sober. And migrants from Buffalo/Rochester now living in the city will probably want to make a special trip out this way. It's just a bit of a walk from either the G or the B/Q, and it'll likely get those nostalgia endorphins pumping.

Buffalo's Famous is located at 1111 Church Avenue, between Stratford and Westminster Roads, and is open daily at 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. weeknights, and until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.