dumont; Photo -- Tien MaoGothamist’s quest to find a reliable neighborhood brunch bistro found us at DuMont last weekend, a 40-seat joint with an adjoining back hallway leading to a closet sized, but adorable bar in the back. A Williamsburg staple, especially for those willing to wander east of Bedford Avenue, DuMont offers comfort foods like burgers, DuMac n’ Cheese, and crab cakes on their brunch and dinner menus, with rotating market fresh specials every day.

dumont; Photo -- Tien MaoGothamist gathered a brunch crew of six, sliding into our seats just as the restaurant opened at 11 a.m., knowing that by noon, the line would be out the door. The meal got off to a sweet start with a plate full of sugary homemade fried dough bites, deliciously fresh and still warm from the fryer. Coffee was tasty and waitresses were prompt to refill; orange juice arrived freshly squeezed in fluted glasses. Though the restaurant offers $6 brunch cocktails – a pomegranate martini, mimosas, bloody mary’s, and additional staples, the table unanimously decided it was a bit too early to indulge, and that if we really want unlimited breakfast drinks we should head down to Essex.

dumont; Photo -- Tien MaoChoosing from a limited brunch menu, Gothamist and another of our dining companions opted for the huevos rancheros, a bed of scrambled eggs over fresh black beans, ripe avocado, cheese, and fresh salsa with a small side of fresh mixed greens. A warm, rolled tortilla came on the side, a tasty accompaniment to the eggs. Another at brunch chose the lone sweet dish on the brunch menu, French toast, thick slabs of white bread dusted in powdered sugar with fresh strawberries and blueberries scattered on top.

Dining companion #4, after a moment’s hesitation, decided on the “awe-inspiring” DuMont burger with cheddar cheese (gruyere, bleu are also available), but was unfortunately less than awed, rendering it “not the best burger I’ve had – too dry.” However, he quickly added the parsley studded fries were amazing and let everyone at the table try the two varieties of the addictive homemade pickles, alone worth a repeat trip.

Gothamist’s fifth and sixth dining companions dined on omelets; slabs of ham and melted cheese oozed out of sides of the omelet with large home-fry style cut potatoes glistened with oil and parsley from the frying pan. Both gave their omelets high marks, scraping the last bit of ham, egg, and cheese off the plate.

Though DuMont falters here and there with slightly overcooked eggs and a burger too well done, the ingredients are fresh, food attractively served and tasty, and the prices just right (all brunch entrees were $7-9). With reputably impressive dinner specials such as lamb ragout with gnocchi, and grilled leg of lamb with olives, capers, and Yukon Gold potatoes, Gothamist is sure to return for an evening meal this summer, relax in the garden out back, and take the time for a cocktail or two.

DuMont, 432 Union Avenue (between Devoe St. and Metropolitan), Williamsburg, 718-486-7717