It's a familiar tale: beloved independent eatery falls victim to whims of landlord, who demands more rent, resulting in the closure of said restaurant. That's the basic story of El Atoradero, which closed over the summer following a crippling rent hike. But what's unusual about the restaurant's story are both its location—in the as-yet-ungentrified section of Mott Haven in the Bronx—and the landlord's reason for hiking the rent: the restaurant was super popular with food critics.

Denisse Lina Chavez, who began her operation in the back of a bodega, has now found a new home in Prospect Heights, miles away from the original. Together with Noah Arenstein, partner at Bushwick's Arrogant Swine and fixture in NYC's food scene, and Dassara's Josh Kaplan, Chavez has opened the sunny new space to cook and serve her legendary carnitas as well as other Mexican staples. The space is much larger than her other outposts, with seating for dozens, plus a full liquor license to serve micheladas, margaritas and other speciality Mexican cocktails, beer and wine.

Carnitas were one of the bigger draws in the Bronx but they're not featured on the soft opening menu, which should be expanding early next year. The spit-roasting trompo will be doing overtime, no doubt, turning out al pastor, chorizo, bistec and chicken tinga in taco ($3), quesadilla ($10), torta ($11) and cemita ($12) forms. Larger dishes include succulent pork ribs in a pumpkin seed sauce (pipian rojo de costillas, $15) and lamb barbacoa ($20).

708 Washington Avenue, Prospect Heights, (718) 399-8226