Tomorrow night, Claus Meyer—godfather of the New Nordic Cuisine movement and co-owner of internationally acclaimed Noma in Copenhagen—debuts his first official New York City offering, Agern, inside Grand Central Terminal. Meyer has been operating a pop-up bakery in Williamsburg prior to this opening, which also heralds the arrival of The Great Northern Food Hall, a 5,000-square foot food hall Meyer will open also inside the Terminal at some point this spring.
Executive Chef Gunnar Gíslason, who's worked with Meyer in both Denmark and Iceland, will execute two tasting menus—one carnivorous, one vegetarian—in addition to an a la carte selection; all use New York State area farmers and producers whenever possible. Nordic flavors and techniques are prevalent here in dishes like Bitter Salad ($16) with preserved blackberry, almonds and Havgus—a Danish, semi-hard cheese akin in texture to a creamy, sharp cheddar—and Parsnip ($32) with black garlic and dead nettle.
Agern embraces the service-included model and the menu even goes so far as to say they won't accept attempts to leave additional gratuity. With that in mind, prices are low-to-average for tasting menu restaurants ($145 for meat, $120 for vegetable), with optional beverage pairings at $85 for alcohol and $45 for non-alcoholic.
Agern is located inside Grand Central Terminal adjacent to Vanderbilt Hall, accessible by the south west entrance on 42nd Street at 89 East 42nd Street, 646-568-4018; website