Our latest installment of Quick Bites brings us to Bed Stuy to an under-the-radar counter spot serving up flavorful dishes.

THE VIBE
"Meet Peri Peri..." reads the expository quadriptych hanging near the front of this new casual restaurant on Malcolm X Boulevard. It goes on, "Born in Southeast Africa. Crafted by the Portuguese. Welcomed in Bed Stuy." Sohaib and Hanan Malik, the lovely brother and sister team who run the place, are actually from Pakistan themselves. The food here is all halal, they accept Bitcoin as payment (as well as Ethereum, Litecoin, and XRP), and along with traditional offerings they serve an array of candy-bar-flavored milkshakes. Peri Peri Grill House is a very 2018 kind of place. It's also inexpensive and totally under-the-radar, for now.

While the focus at Peri Peri maybe feels a little convoluted, the logistics of the place are familiar: you place your order with the friendly counter person in the back, grab a table by the window or a stool along the long counter, and whoever's not busy will bring you your food. Help yourself to silverware and secure a bottle or two of the terrific housemade sauces while you wait. Pusha T played at a pleasing volume during a recent visit.

The Malik siblings moved to Brooklyn from Pakistan when they were seven and nine years old, and opened Peri Peri just earlier this year. For first-time restaurateurs, the Maliks run a notably smooth operation, and everyone who works here is warm and helpful. Most important, the cooking crew really knows what they're doing back there in their no-frills space.

THE BITES
Peri Peri Grill House features mostly casual food enlivened by an excellent blend of chili-pepper-based spices. The Beef Burger, for example, comes with a fat patty prepared either spicy or plain (get the spicy, obviously), a slather of peri peri mayo, caramelized onion, lettuce, tomato, melted cheddar, and "a kick of chili sauce." This is a great sandwich, cooked perfectly medium rare as requested. I ate the double-stacked eight-ounce version, but the four-ounce single would have been plenty satisfying.

There's a lot of chicken available here, which you order sauced-up to varying degrees on the "Peri Scale." I went with Hot for my six-pack of meaty Wings, and they were terrific; my Leg & Thigh quarter-chicken was tender and juicy, but the Lemon and Herb sauce a less interesting complement. There are some surprises on the menu too, like the fantastic marinated Lamb Chops, again grilled with skill (exactly medium rare!) and alive with a gamey, fiery funk.

Side options include the first-rate Peri Peri Fries—crisp, chewy, and dusted with fire—a relatively lifeless mound of Peri Peri Rice, and some delightfully smooth Mashed Potatoes. And for dessert, there are those milkshakes. They come in flavors such as Almond Joy, Kit Kat, Twix, and, for the fancy set, Ferrero Rocher. I had the Snickers version, which certainly lacked nuance but delivered in the sweet, thick, and cold departments.

THE VERDICT
Peri Peri Grill House may look generic but the food is memorable and really packs a punch. A welcome addition to the restaurant mix over here in eastern Bed-Stuy.

Peri Peri Grill House is located at 235 Malcolm X Boulevard between Halsey and Hancock Streets and is open noon to 9:30 p.m. on Tuesday and Wednesday, until 10 p.m. on Thursday through Saturday, and until 9 on Sunday. Closed Monday. (917-966-8614)