On the past three Sunday mornings, right around 10:45 a.m., a line has suddenly formed on Montrose Avenue in front of a whimsically illustrated (but otherwise signage-free) storefront, where it remains for several hours until they run out of the goods inside. The reason for all the fuss and excitement? The weekly pop-ups of Win Son Bakery, which finally soft-opens today in East Williamsburg across the street from the restaurant proper.
Backing up a bit in case you've never been: Win Son is Trigg Brown and Josh Ku's very casual, very popular, and very good Taiwanese-American restaurant nicely situated just far enough away from the major Bushwick party zones so that, after more than three years and much acclaim, it still feels like something a neighborhood spot.
Now Brown, Ku, GM Jesse Shapell, and baker Danielle Spencer are expanding their operation with Win Son Bakery, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a cheery, sprawling space designed and constructed by Ku. Spencer spent time in Tom Colicchio's Crafted Hospitality group, but she's an old friend (and former roommate) of Brown's and was easily persuaded to join the Win Son crew for this new venture. This is all excellent news for East Williamsburg, because based on the two Sunday's worth of baked goods I've devoured here, Spencer is clearly one the city's great pastry chefs.
In the morning Win Son Bakery will be all about Milk Bun Sandos—the messy and rich BEC really hits the spot—and an array of pastries that include Spencer's chewy Black Sesame Mochi Donuts, surprisingly gooey Red Date Cakes, Pine-nut Sun Cookies, Black Sugar Custard Tarts, and a Pineapple Bolo Bao that she calls "our version of a croissant." There's a full range of coffee drinks, of course, and the staff is cheery and efficient.
There's first-rate soft serve ice cream here, too! The flavors so far have been Corn-Town and Milk Tea, they're served with fruity and crunchy toppings, and the "golden waffle cone," made by Spencer, is the absolute best cone I've ever had. So good, in fact, that it almost outshines the actual ice cream (which is delicious).
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the contents of a Big Chicken Box — glazed fried chicken, spiced jojos, scallion pancake + ginger deluxe dipping sauce. keep your eyes peeled as we get closer to opening and come through Sundays for soft serve and doughnuts until then 📸 @laurashoots
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Dinner at Win Son Bakery is equally exciting as breakfast, highlighted by what they're calling Big Chicken Boxes, filled with sticky-glazed Taiwanese-style Fried Chicken (served room temperature), scallion pancakes, and spiced jo-jos (potato wedges). There will also be a variety of sandwiches on Spencer's milk bread, as well as salads and xiǎochī, or small vegetable plates. Beer, wine, and cocktails can accompany all of the above at night—the space seats about 35, at tables and stools.
This week Win Son Bakery is open from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. only. They'll then close for Labor Day weekend, and do a grand opening on Tuesday, September 3rd, serving breakfast daily from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m., and dinner from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. every night except Mondays. Lunch and afternoon hours are coming soon.
Win Son Bakery is located at 164 Graham Avenue at the corner of Montrose Avenue (917-909-1725; winsonbrooklyn.com)