Danish superstar chef Claus Meyer, co-founder of Copenhagen's legendary restaurant Noma, is hitting New York City in a big way in 2016, with his much-anticipated Nordic food market coming to Grand Central Terminal sometime later this spring (hopefully). But there's another smaller, almost equally exciting part of the Meyer invasion: a bakery/cafe in Williamsburg, also opening in May, in the Margo Patisserie spot on Driggs and Fillmore Place.
The reason why any of this is immediately relevant? Every Saturday from now until they take over the place completely, Meyer's head bakers Rhonda Crosson and Jacques Johnson are hosting a weekly preview of some of their favorite breads and pastries at Margo.
The Saturday pop-up (and, presumably, the bakery proper) is called Meyers Bageri, and last week there were a half dozen items on the menu. Note that while you are encouraged to preorder your goods before noon on Thursday each week, you can also just show up and get whatever they have still on hand. Which, last Saturday at noon, was everything. Here's what I ate, in order of amazingness...
- Morgenbolle (or, Morning Bun), with homemade jam and Havarti cheese. The bun had a crackling crust and the insides were fluffy and light, the cheese was creamy and salty, the raspberry jam, made by Johnson that day, was tart and sweet. One of the best "sweet-breakfast" sandwiches I've ever eaten.
- Rugbrød (Rye Bread), half loaf. Dense, sticky, and wonderfully chewy, this whole-grain rye was terrific on its own and, like most things, got even better when slathered with a decent butter.
- Wienerbrød (Danish). The buttery, croissant-ish pastry featured a thick ring of dark chocolate around its edge and a puddle of vanilla custard in the middle. First dessert of the day!
- Kanelsnurre (Cinnamon Swirl). More bready than flaky, this moist and gooey twist delivered the requisite cinnamon hit and went really well with coffee.
- Tebirkes (Poppy Seed Danish). There's an interior glazing of marzipan hidden within the flaky folds of this beast, and enough poppy seeds on top to throw off your drug test results for weeks.
Honorable Mention: Hvedebrød (Wheat Bread). I actually didn't try Johnson and Crosson's sourdough-based creation because I'm trying to cut back on the carbs. Haha, no it's because I forgot to order it. Next week!
Meyers Bageri is located at Margo Patisserie at 667 Driggs Avenue in Williamsburg, on the corner of Fillmore Place, and is open Saturdays from 9 a.m. until they run out. To pre-order your baked goodies (recommended), email firstname.lastname@example.org or call 347-696-8400 before noon on Thursday each week.
There are a few tables available, and I got a seat no problem, but there was also a steady line so no guarantees. No website yet, but here's their Facebook page.