In the middle of summer, just as restaurants were constructing outdoor dining rooms all over New York City, Richard Zaro launched Cutlets, a delivery-only outfit specializing in classic deli sandwiches prepared in a ghost kitchen, then delivered all over Manhattan. Zaro, of the "Family Bakery" Zaro's who have been feeding New Yorkers since 1927, is still fully committed to the delivery game (and as we enter our COVID winter, that seems like a good bet), but last week he added a new component to the business: a restaurant in Nomad.

"I always planned on Cutlets being a brick-and-mortar restaurant, and hopefully the first of many, in NYC and across the country," says Zaro. "But when the pandemic hit I saw an opportunity to build the brand, and to get good sandwiches to as many people as fast as possible, by focusing on delivery."

Cutlets is mostly a takeout operation, though there is some indoor seating available (for when that's allowed again), and if you can't wait to get home, then Madison Square Park three blocks away offers ample opportunities for al fresco dining. The menu features a dozen different sandwiches, mostly starring cutlets of some sort (either chicken or eggplant), plus a chef's collab, which this month is a General Tso's Cutlet sandwich from Nice Day Chinese Takeout.

Everything is available in two sizes, either on a roll or in a hero from Parisi Bakery, and you can also build your own sandwich from an array of ingredients. Like any good sandwich maker, Zaro is obsessive about his sourcing, from stars like the chicken ("Say No To Meat On Drugs" is one of their slogans) to supporting players like the hot sauce (Frank's) sea salt (Maldon), and onion powder (Frontier Co Op, Iowa).

Chicken Cutlet Number Two ($13.99)

Chicken Cutlet Number Two ($13.99)

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Chicken Cutlet Number Two ($13.99)
Scott Lynch / Gothamist

I ate three Cutlets sandwiches this week, and all were first rate. The Chicken Cutlet Number One saw the breaded bird breast topped with semi-melted cheddar and crisp bacon, and the Number Two was sloppy with aged balsamic, lots of EVOO, roasted red peppers, and some seriously sharp provolone. In both cases the chicken itself was skillfully prepared, full of flavor and not even a little bit dry.

Even better, maybe, was the Eggplant Cutlet Number Eight, the headliner sliced thin, fried up crisp and juicy, and smothered in creamy fresh mozzarella, bitter broccoli rabe, more of those red peppers, and housemade pesto. There are also two Parms on the menu, either chicken or eggplant, a couple of Herbed Roasted Turkey assemblages, and a pair of breakfast-type egg sandwiches. Potato chips, soft drinks, and Wandering Bear cold brew round out your options.

"I love cutlets!" says Zaro. "Nationalize cutlets! This is what I grew up on. It's goddam great food."

Cutlets is located at 900 Broadway, between 19th and 20th Streets, and is currently open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. (212-518-6091; cutlets.co)