21 Greenpoint, the restaurant made famous before it even opened thanks to celebrity bartender Bill Murray, officially opened Wednesday evening inside a reboot of the former River Styx space adjacent to WNYC Transmitter Park. It's run by Sydney Silver and Homer Murray—Bill's son, hence the guest bartending stint—who've tapped former Extra Fancy chef Sean Telo to run the kitchen, with its wood-burning oven that'll turn out pizzas and other roasted items and whatever else Telo's inspired by that day.
At Extra Fancy, Telo expertly displayed his finesse with seafood, and he's using that skill here, too. Darling canape-esque bites of salmon pastrami are curled around a creamy sauce gribiche and topped with salmon roe on rye bread. Plump porgy, served raw, takes a bath with plum, jalapeno and grapefruit. Firmly not in precious fish territory: the sinful-sounding steak tartare, which is served inside a roasted marrow bone with lamb fat bread.
The second Sean in the team is Sean McClure, the bar director, who was shaking up some serious cocktails at the preview parties as a foil to Murray's shots of tequila. Saddle up to the curvy bar for drinks like the Smokin' Peaches with both tequila and mezcal plus peach and a habanero shrub. The 6'7'8' Bunch—of Banana Song fame—is a tropical punch of banana rum, pineapple, coconut, lime, orange and grapefruit.
21 Greenpoint Avenue, Brooklyn; 21greenpoint.com