Frank Bruni at the Times stays close to home (the Upper West Side) this week and on message (recession dining) with a review of two newish restaurants in the 'hood: West Branch (a mostly Mediterranean brasserie) and BarBao (mostly Vietnamese). He likes both, but West Branch is "always packed" while BarBao has empty seats, and this "may say a lot about which types of restaurants this cruel economy is going to be kinder to...At a different moment, in a different climate, both could probably count on success. But in this one, merit and good intentions aren’t enough. Caution, classics and French fries — these may matter more."



