On a recent stroll through Ft. Greene, Gothamist stopped in for a bite at the oft-touted iCi, where a charming garden matches a neighborhoodly interior full of cozying white brick walls and a working fireplace. Opened by husband-and-wife, Laurent and Catherine Saillard in 2004 (he the (in)famous former manager from Rocco's, featured on ), iCi, like other purveyors taking advantage of the city's greenmarkets boasts an ever-changing menu with a lot to get excited about. A late summer/fall salad offers arugula with pear tomatoes and parmesan, wilted dandelion greens arrive with crisp bacon and anchovy cream. Entrees, whose prices hover reasonably between $15 - 25, combine the comforts of home cooking with a splash of fine French dining. Roasted Cloonshee Farm Chicken is accompanied by savory grits and braised greens, and baked wild striped bass is light and flaky, adorned with stewed tomatoes that pop in your mouth. Options hover around eight appetizers and entrees apiece, though abundant side options like grits with raw milk cheddar, pickled dilly beans, and bowlfuls of olives are wonderful little treats that add panache to a solid menu.
Camera in the Kitchen: iCi
Caviar and Banana Brasserio: Chodorow Moves On From the Rocco Debacle
When Gothamist first heard that the reality-TV-based infamy that was Rocco's (a.k.a. NBC's "The Restaurant") would be replaced by a Brazilian-themed "Brasserio," we chuckled. Seemed like quite a random departure from the previous incarnation of upscale-yet-kitschy Italian Americana. But then again, wasn't that the point? To try to make people forget the unforgettable bickering and lawsuits that led chef Rocco DiSpirito and restauranteur vet Jeffrey Chodorow to split?
Heave-Ho Rocco
The other shoe has finally dropped for Rocco DiSpirito. The celebrity chef who sold his soul for the NBC reality series "The Restaurant" has now lost not only the restaurant that bears his name, but the restaurant that made it.
Mamma Nicolina!!
The lawsuit stems over a fight for control over Rocco's, the subject of the NBC reality show, 'The Restaurant". DiSpirito says he owns half of the restaurant while Chodorow says he never agreed to any ownership role for DiSpirito. Chodorow and his partners in China Grill Management sued DiSpirito because they accused him mismanaging the restaurant. DiSpirito counter-sued alleging that Chodorow and his partners fudged the numbers to make the restaurant look less successful than it really was.
Making the Restaurant
The new season of The Restaurant starts on April 19. Maybe for May sweeps, NBC will have Donald Trump fire everyone at Rocco's.
Rocco's Rock Bottom?
Mama DiSpririto, a word of advice: After you spank Rocco, you should go out on your own, opening a tiny shop that serves early dinner and that's it.
Everyone's Reality Life
Clyde Haberman's Times column earlier this week looked at a few reality show ideas for NY, what with The Restaurant and tonight's premiere of The Apprentice. Some are very apt:
Product Placement on Rocco's
It's getting a little too easy to point out some of the issues with The Restaurant, but since the Post and the Restaurant are going to town on the crass product placement, we'd be remiss not to weigh in as well. The Post says that Coors, American Express Open, and Mitsubishi paid $200,000 for each advertister slot, plus the article details how Rocco got a $350,000 fee for the series. One restaurant insider tells the Post, "I'm embarrassed by it. It gives you the impression we're just here to take the money and run. We're trying to build a clientele. I suppose you could call them fans if you want, but that's very Hollywood." In all fairness to Rocco, there are a fair number of restaurateurs who are in it for the money and do a worse job than Rocco. But for all of Rocco's blustering about a great experience and great food, Gothamist isn't buying it.
Gothamist Talks to Rocco's Kitchen Manager
Blatant product placements be damned, Gothamist is hooked on The Restaurant, as it feeds into our NY food obsessions. The second episode revolved around both the "soft" and official opening nights of Rocco's, with just the right amount of drama (fire; mix of hardworking and lazy servers; annoying customers), Mama, and Rocco looking cute. And indeed, the ratings improved this past Sunday, winning its timeslot for the night.
Rocco's Reviewed
The knives are out! Finally, reviews of Rocco's from the Times' Williams Grimes (well, a Diner's Journal review, not a starred review) and Daily News' Pascale Le Draoulec. Grimes calls the menu an "Italian-American hit parade with feeling" and overall finds the place "very straightforward, two-fisted and uncomplicated," wondering "why on earth did they have all that trouble on opening night?" Le Draoulec loves the rabbit cacciatore and "alarmingly tender" chicken under a brick, but feels "the food doesn't always taste inspired," and posits "surely that will change when DiSpirito finally stops chatting with the talk show hosts and returns to the kitchen."
The Restaurant Opening
Last night, Rocco DiSpirito's reality show, The Restaurant, premiered and the Times' food critic William Grimes reviewed the show in the weekend's Arts & Leisure section. (Gothamist is curious if one of the TV critics Alessandra Stanley or Julie Salomon or even Caryn James - who we haven't seen much of lately - will be reviewing Rocco's On 22nd Street, the restaurant, as a restaurant then?) Biff loves the "thrilling" glimpse into what goes into making a New York restaurant buzz, but was also reminded of "the unholy alliance of creativity, money and public relations that dominates New York's restaurant economy." The LA Times on the show and Newsday on Rocco's mother, Niccolina, who was his mentor of sorts.

