The Times's Sam Sifton is back on the beat this week, and rather than look at a new restaurant he's gone and revisited an old one. A very old one. But even after 85 years, the Palm doesn't disappoint... assuming you don't look at the menu (which has calorie counts) and just order the steak or the lobster. Avoid those rules and you are on your own. In the end Sifton gives the restaurant and its sibling, Palm Too across the street, one-star (which is what it got in 1992). "Palm may be a chain restaurant," he says. "But not on Second Avenue, no matter where you sit." more ›