Results tagged “restaurantreview”

Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

Frank Bruni heads to Williamsburg to check out Rye, the South 1st Street joint from chef Cal Elliott (Dressler, Dumont). The NY Times restaurant critic admires the former bodega decor, where the "woodwork and pressed tin ceiling look like lovingly restored" and its "long, gorgeous mahogany bar," but ultimately offers one star: "Rye needs to be more consistent... when Mr. Elliott hits his mark, the cooking appealingly complements that atmosphere. It’s mostly a mix of bistro stalwarts and of-the-moment comfort foods like a side of macaroni and cheese, the non-slider sliders and the meatloaf sandwich, wet and wild enough to qualify as a sloppy Joe — an enormous, fantastic one at that. The mix of meats in its crunchy embrace included beef, veal, duck and pork."

Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

This week Frank Bruni at the Times opines on really, really, ridiculously good looking Tribeca restaurant Macao Trading Co., which serves fancy Employees Only cocktails and two versions (Portuguese and Chinese) of every dish. It's a fun read, replete with descriptions of phalluses in locked cages and the waitress who's "trying not to think about what working here is doing to my psyche." In his generous one star review, Bruni says one of his companions "put it best. 'This... is a deeply silly restaurant.'

Adam Platt panned star chef Alain Ducasse’s Benoit (pictured), declaring it an “ersatz” brasserie and concluding that “French cuisine, as we used to know it, is deader than we think.” Now the Times’s Frank Bruni takes his turn, and while he disagrees that it’s “a throwaway restaurant,” he does concur that “Benoit is selling a dining experience so familiar it’s almost a cliché… And what of the ‘Parisian salad’? The city it’s referring to must be Paris, Tex. That’s a more likely cradle of this humdrum, deli-caliber mix of chicken, ham, cheese and lettuce.” But the veal appetizer (poached tongue and foie gras) “is worth the trip.”

Even though winter’s barely a week old, many folks in the city have come down with a doozy of a cold, perhaps due to the sharp temperature drop that marked the end of an otherwise moderate fall. Our nasty respiratory bug is finally on its way out, largely because we’ve been treating it with a variety of potent soups available in Queens. Whether you're sick as a dog or just in need of a warm up, solace can be found in these hearty soups and stews.

Hey, have y'all been using our new "Recommend this" feature at the bottom of each post? This week we're bringing you the "Most Recommended" posts from across the -ist world, as well as recommending some of our own.

A restaurant review, no matter how harsh, is not an appropriate basis for a libel action because it reflects an individual's subjective opinion about the quality of food, service and decor.The judge added that the First Amendment allowed for people to air and publish their views. Thanks, founding fathers for the Constitution! God Lord, if this lawsuit made it through, next thing you'd know, Amanda Hesser would be getting calls from lawyers, not to mention Frank Rich from old Broadway producers. Ah, Lucky Cheng's - home of underage drinking, bachelorette parties, and middle-aged businessmen looking for cheap thrills: A true NY institution.

New critic Frank Bruni's premiere Times restaurant review is of Babbo, the crown jewel in chef Mario Batali and partner Joe Bastianich's restaurant empire. Bruni gives three stars, the same rating Ruth Reichl gave it that heady summer of 98 when it first opened (if SLNY were around then, they would have noted that the line was busy busy busy, and then when someone would pick up, the only table was for 10:30PM). But what Gothamist found most interesting was Bruni's thoughts about the differences between three- and four-star restaurants; right now, Babbo falls just short of four because of its ambience (loud music like the Black Crowes and Led Zeppelin from Batali's own iPod, a rushed and frenetic if extremely helpful staff). Bruni also comments on Batali's orange high-top sneakers as a sign of Batali's relaxed iconoclasm, which makes Gothamist demand a re-examination of the footwear of NYC chefs, which ran in the Times a couple years ago. The article pointed out how Batali liked to wear rubber clogs in the kitchen (because they are dishwashable) while Jean-Georges Vongerichten wore Prada shoes.

William Grimes came up with a better title for his Howard Johnson's restaurant review: HoJo's to Go? Say It Ain't So Apparently the old HoJo's in Times Square is thinking about packing it in, probably to make room for another Olive Garden restaurant or something like that. I love HoJo's- it was the hotel of choice for my poor pinko parents back in the 1970s. And I disagree with Grimes about the clam strips- I think they are just rubbery enough.

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