Food writing has changed a lot in the last few years. Its focus has shifted to an almost philosophical arena where any recipe can be dissected for the broader, global meaning of its constituent ingredients. The source of every carrot or celery stalk we eat is inexorably combined with issues of nutrition and environmental sustainability. It’s the Omnivore’s Dilemma effect - people are suddenly grappling with the repercussions of a country that runs on 200 million acres of corn, wheat, soy, and rice. Within the restaurant industry, and for the foreseeable future, it’s far less expensive to source and cook mass-produced vegetables and meat from immense, industrialized farms. This not only comes with a huge environmental cost, but consequently buries the flavors of food.
Dan Barber, Chef
A Taste of . . . Blue Hill at Stone Barns
We've been patiently waiting for spring to arrive to time our road trip to Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills, about a 45 minute drive from Manhattan. The timing was perfect -- Chef Dan Barber loaded up our $42 prix fixe lunch with spring's bounty -- ramps, asparagus, dainty greenhouse microgreens, and fresh breakfast radishes. Pictured above are black bass perched atop a delicately sweet stew of beets, and spinach cannelloni, with trumpet mushrooms, ramps, and "frills." Despite the farm setting, the dining room was quite elegant yet comfortable and the service impeccable without feeling obtrusive. A walk around the grounds served as a perfect opportunity to digest and learn a bit more about the origins of the food we had just consumed.
Road Trip! Blue Hill at Stone Barns
Everyone's excited about Blue Hill at Stone Barns. It was highlighted in today's Manhattan User's Guide and reviewed in New York Magazine.

