Results tagged “monkeybar”

This week Frank Bruni at the Times files a one star review of Monkey Bar, "a big-city big-game reserve for the lions, gazelles and jackals of the urban veldt.... They’ve come because Graydon Carter, the editor of Vanity Fair and one of the principal architects of this experience, summoned them. On top of everything else the Monkey Bar is his social pulpit, affirming his ordination as the high priest of a certain fame-focused, power-obsessed sect of Manhattan society... And he fashions a fantasy New York where arrivistes bask in mutual recognition and reciprocal adoration, each mirroring the others’ sense of triumph, the unruly city edited down to one preposterously romantic room for the most unromantic of pursuits: back scratching and social climbing."

This week Frank Bruni at the Times reviews Meatpacking District hotspot Spice Market, where chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's menu is inspired by Asian street food. Interim dining critic Amanda Hesser gave it three out of four stars in 2004, but the paper was forced to issue a statement acknowledging that Hesser should have disclosed the glowing jacket blurb Vongerichten wrote for her book.

The revamped, newly exclusive Monkey Bar has gone the route of the blue-plate special, featuring menu nuggets like iceberg lettuce wedge salad and home-style meatloaf. At the upscale Oak Room, now reopened after a restaurant critic meltdown, new chef Eric Hara is serving fancy versions of grilled cheese sandwiches with tomato soup, and ye olde potluck favorite Stuffed Shells (Hara’s shells are stuffed, however, with veal cheeks, chanterelles, and cherries). In the midst of all the retro-food it would seem fitting that Lil' Smokies, the hot dog shorties of somebody's campfire memories, have also made a return; they’re now being served at 5 Ninth, where Kevin Pomplun is chef. The good news is that you don’t have to have a publicist or know someone to get into the place. In fact, the Lil Smokies are only available at the bar, are free (with purchase of drink), and are available all day.

The storied restaurant Monkey Bar, which was sold last year and closed for renovations, is now in a super-stealthy friends-and-family mode. New owner Graydon Carter also operates the exclusive Waverly Inn and inspires such awe and secrecy among his customers that those who have so far previewed the menu have declined to be identified in articles about the restaurant. But the first (anonymous) reports reveal a throwback menu that’s all blue-plate specials gone to high-end heaven: “Meatloaf, chicken Payard [sic] and the old iceberg wedge with blue cheese,” the Observer reports. Andrea Strong hears Waldorf Salad and "Lobster Newburgh" [sic] are in there, too. “Chef is from London,” Strong’s tipster says, but up until now the chef’s identity has remained secret. We have it on good authority that Monkey Bar’s new executive chef is Elliot Ketley (pictured), who worked as chef for 4 years at exclusive NY club Soho House, but also at some of the most well-regarded restaurants in England.

A veteran of Nobu and Ruby Foo’s, Chris Cheung was hired 5 months ago to replace Patricia Yeo at Monkey Bar, the red satin and black lacquer midtown institution known primarily for its, well, monkey theme. In an effort to reemphasize the food quotient of the restaurant, the 38 year-old chef maintains an inventory of global tastes and reassembles them using the template of traditional Chinese food: The curly fries, for example, that come with the burger are made with taro, and the burger itself is served on a bao bun made in-house. The result is not fusion, or an eclectic cook-by-numbers approach to food; Cheung seems to spend a lot of time thinking about ingredients, so the food at Monkey Bar isn’t really served with anything added for dramatic effect, and the plate presentations are relatively uncomplicated. Cheung calls his style “Evolutionary Chinese Cooking.”

This week in the Times, Bruni two-stars Soto, calls the restaurant “an unipalooza like none I’ve encountered.” Don’t stick to the sushi and sashimi; if you do, you’re “missing not only the best of this restaurant but also the point of it.” The service? “Sluggish and absent-minded.”

This week in the Times, Bruni goes to Café Boulud, reaffirms its three-star status. Says that under Chef Bertrand Chemel (who replaced Andrew Carmellini after his departure in 2005), the restaurant “promises about as much pleasure in the present as it did in the past.” He likes the traditional section of the menu best, but also loves the pastas. Doesn’t love the desserts, excepting the soufflés.

Bruni visits the recently reopened Provence (now owned and run by Cookshop & Five Points’ Marc Meyer and Vicki Freeman), awards the restaurant one star. He likes the minimal changes they’ve made to the design; the food, not so much: “Provence’s is inconsistent and dull,” he says. He does like the wine and the cheese selection though.

Pictured: Assari Ramen from Menchanko-Tei.