Results tagged “mediterranean”

This week the Times's Frank Bruni opines on the new location of Kefi, the insaaaanely cheap Upper West Side Mediterranean restaurant from chef Michael Psilakis (Anthos, Mia Dona, Friend of Gothamist). Bruni admits he's a big fan of Psilakis, but doesn't pull punches in this surprisingly mixed review, in which he complains of "palate mononucleosis" from "runaway saltiness." And "while most dishes are satisfying in a hyper-robust way, some have at least one and usually two ingredients too many." Ultimately, Bruni thinks Kefi used to be cool, back at the original location: "There, many of the same dishes were executed with more precision and restraint. It was a lesser stage, but it was a greater one."

This week Frank Bruni at the Times bestows two precious stars on Greenwich Village restaurant 10 Downing. It's a big deal for chef Jason Neroni, who, as Bruni observes right at the top, has had his troubles. But that was then, this is now: "I seldom had the sense that Mr. Neroni was showing off, which he’s been known to do. What was strongest about the best dishes wasn’t some fanciful conceit or adornment, but rather the quality and preparation of the centerpiece ingredient." Still, bring your hearing aid, for the "din can be excruciating."

        

The focal point of Trigo, a big 150-seat Mediterranean-inspired brasserie in TriBeCa, is the earth-stone hearth, where chef Michael Garrett bakes new twists on rustic flatbreads, which include a French-inspired Onion and Tart Green Apple. As you can see, the 20-foot floor-to-ceiling windows, elegant iron latticework, and monumental columns make this quite the ambitious enterprise. Only time will tell if it can stare recession in the eyes and laugh, but the all-day breakfast, lunch and dinner service could help Trigo make regulars out of the locals.

Prespa: This new bi-level restaurant and lounge is named after two freshwater lakes in southeast Europe shared by Greece, Albania, and the Republic of Macedonia. It's a redesign of what was formerly Prespa Mediterranean Brasserie, and Strong Buzz says Murray Hill gourmands are fervently hoping it'll become a local dining oasis in their mediocre neighborhood. The menu from Executive Chef Richard Farnabe (Jean-Georges, Montrachet) emphasizes Mediterranean tapas, but there are also full size entrees such as Braised Short Ribs with pine nuts, apricot and carrot fritters ($12/$27); Paupiette of John Dory with foie gras, chanterelle and yellow wine sauce ($17); and Broiled Black Cod with jicama and avocado salad ($11/$28). (Officially opening Monday for lunch and dinner.) 184 Lexington Avenue, between 31st and 32nd Street; (212) 810-4335

Dardanel: Salt crusted fish is the star of the reasonably priced seafood menu at this new midtown east restaurant (pictured), named for the strait that connects the Black Sea to the Mediterranean. As such, the high number of seafood dishes are complemented by Turkish classics like halvah pie. The fish is imported daily from the Mediterranean, and entrees include Brook Trout Casserole with grilled vegetables ($19); brick oven baked Black Sea anchovies with rice, pine nuts, currant and herbs stuffing served in a casserole ($19); and Char Grilled & Skewered Chicken or Lamb Adana ($16). Wines come from as far afield as Israel and Georgia, and the $5 desserts include Almond Macaroons and Baklava. Dardanel seats 65, and is "nautically themed." 1071 First Avenue, (212) 888-0809

"M" by Megu: Expensive Tribeca Japanese restaurant Megu has redone its upstairs space (formerly Kimono Bar) into a swank nightclub (pictured) with a "small bites" menu. The dance floor has been expanded, fancy cocktails like “Death in the Afternoon” (Absinthe, Champagne, Rock Sugar) have been concocted, and the waitress have been attired in swimsuits custom designed by Keiko, who we're told is kind of a big deal. Menu options include Kobe Beef Sliders, Crispy Cod Sliders, Crunchy Rice Cake Poppers, and select items off the downstairs Megu menu. Your reaction to the following will probably determine if any of this will appeal to you: Eve attended the opening party! 62 Thomas Street, (212) 964-7777