This week Bruni visits Keith McNally's Morandi, which has been getting creamed by critics of late. He awards the restaurant one star, says "the food has been getting a worse rap than it deserves," but also that it's erratic. He doesn't love the desserts, but doesn't hate them; same goes for the wine list. Overall, McNally has "miscalculated with this restaurant," says Bruni, "which doesn't have enough atmospheric magic to distract you from the insane decibel level, absence of elbow room and uncomfortable chairs."
Wednesday Food News: Early Edition
Wednesday Food News
Bruni visits Nish (the former March) on the Upper East Side, awards the restaurant two stars. The restaurant is "March minus some of the manners and mannerisms," says Bruni, more casual and more accessible. While he likes most of the food, as well as the affordable wine, he finds that it "isn't so dazzling as to guarantee the kind of success that’s eluded [chef Wayne Nish] over the last few years."
Wednesday Food News: Early Edition
Bruni re-reviews Eleven Madison Park and the Bar Room at the Modern, bumping each up a star to three. He raves about chef Daniel Humm, who took over the kitchen at Eleven Madison Park early last year. Finds the beef tenderloin with bordelaise sauce thickened with marrow "druggy." As for the Bar Room, it's "an unpretentious character study," he says.
Wednesday Early Edition: Food News
Bruni one-stars Chinatown Brasserie; it's uneven, but he loves the dim sum. Especially the dumplings. "What's better than dumplings?" asks Frank. Gothamist has at times asked ourselves that same question.
Tidbits
- The poster couple for cute East Village restaurants, Jack and Grace Lamb, brings us Degustation in the 16 seat spot next to Jewel Bako. The menu is small plate-style, with Spanish and French influences. 239 East Fifth Street, (212) 979-1012. [via NYT, Thrillist]
NYC's Michelin Restaurants
Charlie Suisman over at Manhattan User's Guide broke the French omerta on the New York City restaurants Michelin guide and listed the restaurants receiving 1, 2 or 3 stars. Only thirty-nine restaurants were reviewed. Here's a quick analysis:
Drink Up: Gothamist Revisits Fish Bar
Between the accelerating AC bill, the boredom of August and the depression of knowing we don't summer anywhere, Gothamist has been more and more interested in revisiting the idea of cheap. Fish Bar is not what we'd technically call a dive (we're not afraid to let our feet touch the floor). It is an adorable and filled with kitsch: mermaids, tackle, shells, and buoys line the walls and compete with the Stoli for room on the bar. On a block dominated by Grace & Jack Lamb (the bar shares a wall with very elegant Jewel Bako), Fish Bar is easy to get comfortable in, without pretense.
Sushi + Excel = Where to Find Great Sushi
It has also earned a certain renown among chefs. "When I went to check out Sui with a friend," the author says, "the chef overheard our conversation and asked if I was Lippmann-san. He said his friend at Riingo told him about the sheet and that I would be coming by, and hopefully I'd add him." Lippmann obliged.
Five to Visit
The Corner Table posts their current top five restaurants in NYC:
Giving Up The Goose
The readers at sushi NYC love Jewel Bako. And the Lambs' other restaurant, Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar, is a great place for some oysters and drinks or for a decadent tasting menu.
Knowing The Food You Eat
Learn more about what the Food and Drug Administration is up to. And check out their Office of Seafood.
she loves sushi
she loves ny breaks its sushi issue. Raw fish fanatics can get the scoop on "New and of Note," The Top Top," "Top Sashimi," "Top Dives," and "Who's Who Of Maki Rolls" plus the resy low-down. slny says "The Top Top" "however should be had on expense accounts only," Gothamist offers, "should be had on dates with sugar daddies or sugar mommies...or with real mommies and daddies." At any rate, Gothamist loves she loves ny...glslny.
The Blue Goose Cafe
Gothamist headed to the Blue Goose Cafe on Second Avenue and 6th Street for an afternoon snack with T, who, not so coincidentally, was our companion when we frequented owners Jack and Grace Lamb's other East Village venture, the wonderful Jewel Bako. With pastries from Payard, Ceci Cela, and Sullivan Street Bakery, the Blue Goose is as close to a sure thing a simple cafe can be, but the Lambs have added their elegant touch.

