You know things are bad when Mark Bittman flat out refuses his publisher's request to update his 1994 omnibus Fish: The Complete Guide to Buying and Cooking on the grounds that overfishing and sustainability issues too frequently shift the labyrinthine rules of buying seafood, and no longer supply any diner with enough specific information that holds up in print. In a recent article, Bittman describes the "logistical and ethical nightmare" that's replaced the once-simple process of buying fresh fish, admitting that even the old standby wallet cards supplied by authorities like the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch have limits. When a waiter can't tell you what parcel of the Pacific your cod came from, for example, or if it met its end by trawl or longline, a piece of paper in your pocket isn't likely to help much, either.



