Good things come in small packages: At Chinatown Brasserie yesterday, a preview was held for this Thursday’s James Beard Foundation benefit gala. An accompanying conference (the whole shebang is called Dumplings & Dynasties) takes place Friday and Saturday, and will explore the state of modern Chinese food. Yesterday, Chinatown Brasserie’s Joe Ng prepared snacks and a roster of visiting Chinese master chefs—many of whom are legends— were introduced. Hong Kong-based Chow Chung, for example, operates a speakeasy in his home where the entire menu changes completely every day. Also in town is Ken Tam from Toronto’s Lai Wah Heen. The Times once called Lai Wah Heen’s dim sum "maybe the best in North America."
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