Results tagged “defontes”

This week the Times's Frank Bruni opines on the new location of Kefi, the insaaaanely cheap Upper West Side Mediterranean restaurant from chef Michael Psilakis (Anthos, Mia Dona, Friend of Gothamist). Bruni admits he's a big fan of Psilakis, but doesn't pull punches in this surprisingly mixed review, in which he complains of "palate mononucleosis" from "runaway saltiness." And "while most dishes are satisfying in a hyper-robust way, some have at least one and usually two ingredients too many." Ultimately, Bruni thinks Kefi used to be cool, back at the original location: "There, many of the same dishes were executed with more precision and restraint. It was a lesser stage, but it was a greater one."