Quince is in season, and this year we mean to take advantage of it. Quinces are like apples' upscale cousins - tarter, rosier, more gussied up and elegant. While the apple is available right here, right now, the quince must be cooked for a long time until its pale flesh turns a ruddy hue and its lush sweetness is fully evoked. The apple wants you without hesitation, but the quince must be seduced. When picking...
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