Results tagged “charno4”

This week the Times's Frank Bruni reviews Kurve (pictured), the Thai-centric space-age restaurant in the East Village, which has had a long, rocky road to opening. (After Sarah DiGregorio at the Voice ate there in September, she was informed it "was not yet open.") Bruni awards it zero stars and has fun with his disgruntled companions along the way:

"Kurve struts. Until recently it outfitted its servers in proper hats, which prompted associations that changed depending on how far our meal had progressed, how thoroughly our patience had been taxed and how sinister our outlook on the restaurant had become.

Continue reading "Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup"

The lamb pastrami at the two month-old Smith Street restaurant Char No. 4 is made only in the spirit of regular pastrami, which is usually made with brisket (brisket's usually beef; a chest cut). Chef Matt Greco—who worked for Gray Kunz and Andrew Carmellini—first brines a hunk of lamb shoulder for a week. After that he makes a roulade, coats it with magic Greco spice and smokes it in-house, where it's plated with a tangle of pickled onion and greens, coriander aioli, and rye-caraway toast. From the looks of the photo above, it might be tempting to call the dish some kind of post-modern rift on the gastro-ethno-geographic terrain of old New York, but Greco's attention to his craft yields nothing but clean and bright flavors, and the whole thing is amazingly good. Like, $12 good.