The 49-year-old chef Cesare Casella is known for his food, sure, but he’s also known for the almost comical rosemary boutonnière he seemingly wears 24-7. He is so enamored of the herb that it sprouts in the window boxes outside his 35-seat restaurant and specialty grocery Salumeria Rosi and overflows from the diamond-shaped sapling planters in the sidewalk below. The tiny restaurant portion of the space specializes in small, rustic Italian plates. Its menu of sliced-to-order meats and cheeses is all very affordable: almost everything, like Casella’s signature salad of soft scrambled egg, pancetta and market greens costs $7 or less. We asked the chef a few questions about the restaurant (which opened last year), the banned Parma ham culatello (“the heart of prosciutto”), and how in his own heart Casella identifies with the buttero, or Italian cowboys of Italy.



