Food: September 2007 Archives

With the notable exception of Brooklyn, the Outer Boroughs are a veritable wasteland when it comes, to bánh mí, or Vietnamese sandwiches. Despite repeated forays, we've yet to find any decent versions in Queens. Those that do exist are served in restaurants, and every bánh mí fiend worth his Sriracha knows that restaurants never serve a good Vietnamese sandwich; it's simply not in their best interests to sell $3.00 entrees. As with many sandwiches, the best bánh mí are found in mom and pop delis. We like to think that these refreshing sandwiches are at their best at delis because those joints specialize in bánh mí and little else.

With the notable exception of Brooklyn, the Outer Boroughs are a veritable wasteland when it comes, to bánh mí, or Vietnamese sandwiches. Despite repeated forays, we've yet to find any decent versions in Queens. Those that do exist are served in restaurants, and every bánh mí fiend worth his Sriracha knows that restaurants never serve a good Vietnamese sandwich; it's simply not in their best interests to sell $3.00 entrees. As with many sandwiches, the best bánh mí are found in mom and pop delis. We like to think that these refreshing sandwiches are at their best at delis because those joints specialize in bánh mí and little else.

Talk about joy -- over 300 sakes will be poured at the largest sake tasting in the United States, coming our way tonight. Over 100 of them are generally not available outside Japan and about 150 are silver and gold award winners in the National Sake Appraisal that takes place each year. Never fear, there will be appetizers to soak it all up, from the likes of Bao Noodles, Bond St, EN Japanese Brasserie, 15 East, Megu, Sakagura, Tocqueville, Woo Lae Oak, wd-50, and more. There's also a sake info desk where an expert will be able to answer all of your burning sake questions. 6 - 9 p.m., the Puck Building, 295 Lafayette between East Houston and Prince Streets. Tickets are $75 in advance and $90 at the door. For more info or to make reservations, call 212-799-7243, or visit joyofsake.com.

A few weeks ago when we learned that Noho eatery Il Buco would be roasting Ossabaw hogs for its fourth annual "Sagra del Maiale," or outdoor pig roast, we knew there was no way in hell that Gothamist could stay away from the cobblestone block that is Bond Street. The Ossabaw is the very pig that Peter Kaminsky sang the praises of in his book Pig Perfect. And it is indeed quite a special piggy, for it is descended from Spain's legendary black-footed pigs, which are the source of the mindshatteringly luscious Jamon Iberico.

On tap for this year’s 33rd Annual Atlantic Antic festival, taking this Sunday from 10 AM to 6 PM (rain or shine, buddy) is the usual bonanza of pony rides, live music, and balloon animals. This year’s Antic has an added emphasis on food, which should hopefully make it a remedy to all the street fair food fatigue that’s been going around recently.

This is meant as a direct response to the question - what do you do when you come across a monstrously large sweet potato that stares you in the face and demands to be bested?

Grayz: Chef Gray Kunz's newest spot is located in the lower levels of a townhouse where the Rockefellers once resided. The newest resident is no less classy -- this high-end cocktail oasis/private event space serves up a menu featuring upscale nibbles like salt stone grilled prawns w/ kimchi, pear, and ginger, and minced veal weisswurst with handmade pretzels. 13-15 West 54th Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues, 212.262.4600.

We love fine dining as much as the next gourmand, but there’s something about fancy French restaurants with their retinues of waiters, sommeliers, captains and bread sergeants that we find slightly offputting. Upon arriving at Last Thursday’s tasting of Vérité wines at Bouley we were in a bit of tizzy, not because of our issues surrounding Le/La/Les establishments, but due to our walking in some five minutes before vigneron Pierre Seillan’s speech ended. This gaffe was largely due to our looking for the restaurant on Broadway instead of West Broadway. In retrospect, this may not have been a bad thing, since the hourlong vertical tasting of three wines started at 11:30 a.m. In order to do it justice, Gothamist would had to have sampled 21 wines, or vintages from 1998 to 2004 of each red on offer, all on a relatively empty stomach. Besides as Seillan, the creative force behind the acclaimed Sonoma County winery, graciously pointed out, our lateness allowed the wines to open up a bit more.

We love fine dining as much as the next gourmand, but there’s something about fancy French restaurants with their retinues of waiters, sommeliers, captains and bread sergeants that we find slightly offputting. Upon arriving at Last Thursday’s tasting of Vérité wines at Bouley we were in a bit of tizzy, not because of our issues surrounding Le/La/Les establishments, but due to our walking in some five minutes before vigneron Pierre Seillan’s speech ended. This gaffe was largely due to our looking for the restaurant on Broadway instead of West Broadway. In retrospect, this may not have been a bad thing, since the hourlong vertical tasting of three wines started at 11:30 a.m. In order to do it justice, Gothamist would had to have sampled 21 wines, or vintages from 1998 to 2004 of each red on offer, all on a relatively empty stomach. Besides as Seillan, the creative force behind the acclaimed Sonoma County winery, graciously pointed out, our lateness allowed the wines to open up a bit more.

Got a tidbit for us? Send it to the feedbag.

What’s worth watching on food-TV this week?

Earlier this week, StarChefs held its 2nd International Chef’s Congress on the top two floors of 7 World Trade Center. Open to industry professionals only, this annual event draws notable chefs from all over the world and provides the opportunity to honor its Rising Stars, an award the culinary organization gives to young professionals. A full list of this year’s winners, including Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern, Chris Lee of Gilt, and Daniel Eardley of Brooklyn’s Chestnut can be found here. This year’s winners were celebrated during the Rising Stars Revue Tuesday night at The Mansion on West 28th Street, which capped off the proceedings.

Faces who are new to Greenpoint might best recognize Paloma for its owner and chef, Camille Becerra, a Season 3 Top Chef contestant (and early departure). Others might just head there for their touted “Urban American Cuisine,” a mix of restaurant, artspace, and convivial Greenpoint gathering spot that serves up food, drink, and oftentimes live music and DVD and television projections. Gothamist visited with a table of friends on a recent night after a successful bowling match at newly opened bar, The Gutter (which features eight vintage bowling lanes adjacent its bar). Paloma is a short walk from The Gutter’s N. 14th Street address on the Williamsburg and Greenpoint border, where food options can otherwise be sparse.

Faces who are new to Greenpoint might best recognize Paloma for its owner and chef, Camille Becerra, a Season 3 Top Chef contestant (and early departure). Others might just head there for their touted “Urban American Cuisine,” a mix of restaurant, artspace, and convivial Greenpoint gathering spot that serves up food, drink, and oftentimes live music and DVD and television projections. Gothamist visited with a table of friends on a recent night after a successful bowling match at newly opened bar, The Gutter (which features eight vintage bowling lanes adjacent its bar). Paloma is a short walk from The Gutter’s N. 14th Street address on the Williamsburg and Greenpoint border, where food options can otherwise be sparse.

It's time for Time Out New York's fifth annual food-stravaganza featuring tastings from over forty participating restaurants and beverage purveyors. Get a bite from L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Mai House, or Morimoto while sipping on drinks from Chopin Vodka and Stella Artois. Tickets are $100 and include a copy of the 2008 Eating & Drinking 2008 guide. Skylight Studios, 275 Hudson St at Spring St. 6:30–9:30pm. For more info or to purchase tickets, go to timeoutnewyork.com/eat.

Our mother gave us a bag of dried cherries the other day. She'd picked them up for herself, but after tasting them she decided that they weren't for eating. They were for baking, she said, and while she doesn't bake herself, she loves it when we do. In search of sustenance to get us through apple-picking last weekend (yes, it's apple season again!), we turned to those cherries at last. What goes better than cherries and chocolate, after all?

Our mother gave us a bag of dried cherries the other day. She'd picked them up for herself, but after tasting them she decided that they weren't for eating. They were for baking, she said, and while she doesn't bake herself, she loves it when we do. In search of sustenance to get us through apple-picking last weekend (yes, it's apple season again!), we turned to those cherries at last. What goes better than cherries and chocolate, after all?

This week in the Times, Bruni goes to Peter Luger, gives the restaurant two stars—a drop from the three awarded it by Ruth Reichl previously. Says “no other restaurant serves a porterhouse so breakthtaking.” But he also says that the restaurant is inconsistent, service ranges from gruff to hostile, and the winelist needs an upgrade.

The Grey Lady is paying a return visit to Peter Luger Steak House in tomorrow's dining section. This New York institution was last reviewed by Ruth Reichl, who awarded it a hefty three stars, proclaiming it "the best steak in New York City." Her description of the Luger experience is almost pornographic:

You know the steak is great before you even taste it. You know it from the fine, funky, mineral aroma that wafts across the table and announces that this is a piece of meat. When the waiter appears with the platter, he stands there spooning a mixture of butter and meat juices across the sizzling porterhouse in an exercise of pure theater. He is merely prolonging the moment, allowing the aroma to revive all your primal instincts as he stretches out the time until you can actually sink your teeth into the flesh. Finally he serves, slowly doling out slices of fillet and sirloin. As your mouth closes on the incredibly tender piece of beef, aroma and flavor come together, exploding on the palate.

Summer may be almost over in the city, but we're still clinging on to that summery feeling when the temp sneaks up past 70 degrees. On those days we find solace in the psychedelically colored iced desserts at Queens' Mie Jakarta. This joint's name means Jakarta noodles, and its noodles are indeed quite tasty. However, when our internal barometer goes haywire due to summer flashbacks we want only one thing here: a cooling, sweet icy, fruit-laden dessert.

"Travis Pickle" courtesy of Wheelhouse Pickles

We love it when we see the creativity of spirits mixology applied to beer - within reason of course. While there is a simple purity in a frosty pint of beer, sometimes it’s fun to play around. Our latest beer-tail to add to the collection, the Black and Blue, is case and point. It mixes things up just a little but doesn’t adulterate our brew.

We love it when we see the creativity of spirits mixology applied to beer - within reason of course. While there is a simple purity in a frosty pint of beer, sometimes it’s fun to play around. Our latest beer-tail to add to the collection, the Black and Blue, is case and point. It mixes things up just a little but doesn’t adulterate our brew.

What’s worth watching on food-TV this week?

We love this week’s NY Mag article by “locavore” Manny Howard, who planted a farm in his 800 square foot Brooklyn backyard. He grew vegetables and raised both rabbits and chickens, with the goal of using what he raised from March through July as his sole subsistence for the month of August.

Kingswood: Aussie owner of Nolita's Ruby's takes the leap from sandwich shop to sit-down restaurant. With the feel of an indoor garden, Kingswood serves up dishes like cured duck breast with fig chutney, a roasted peach salad with crispy prosciutto and white balsamic or a rack of lamb with tomato orzo. In late October, the space will expand to include a downstairs lounge. 121 West 10th Street between Greenwich and Sixth Avenues. (212) 645-0044.

Brick Oven Gallery is the kind of laid-back off-Bedford Ave. pizza joint that makes the perfect start for a night out in Williamsburg. Situated on an otherwise-residential block of Havermeyer Street (between N. 7th & N. 8th), Brick Oven Gallery is a one room pizza parlor with a century-old brick oven that pumps out superbly thin pies with myriad toppings. An outdoor garden sits at the back of a lot and provides less ambiance then a chance to spend one of these recent fall-like nights outdoors enjoying the cool air. The menu offers varied options, especially for a pizza parlor--with a number of house pastas and paninis for the pizza averse. That said, pizza is expectedly the star of the show, so why go otherwise?

Brick Oven Gallery is the kind of laid-back off-Bedford Ave. pizza joint that makes the perfect start for a night out in Williamsburg. Situated on an otherwise-residential block of Havermeyer Street (between N. 7th & N. 8th), Brick Oven Gallery is a one room pizza parlor with a century-old brick oven that pumps out superbly thin pies with myriad toppings. An outdoor garden sits at the back of a lot and provides less ambiance then a chance to spend one of these recent fall-like nights outdoors enjoying the cool air. The menu offers varied options, especially for a pizza parlor--with a number of house pastas and paninis for the pizza averse. That said, pizza is expectedly the star of the show, so why go otherwise?

Recently, we learned that the Oaxacan delicacy of chapulines, or dried grasshoppers, hits the shelves in NYC at the end of this month. This news came to us from a diminutive friend who's been bestowed the nickname Chapuline by his fellow line cooks at a Chelsea restaurant. Ever optimistic in our quest for weird foods we hit Mexican groceries in both the Bronx and Queens armed with the question, "Se vende chapulines," only to come up empty-handed.

Recently, we learned that the Oaxacan delicacy of chapulines, or dried grasshoppers, hits the shelves in NYC at the end of this month. This news came to us from a diminutive friend who's been bestowed the nickname Chapuline by his fellow line cooks at a Chelsea restaurant. Ever optimistic in our quest for weird foods we hit Mexican groceries in both the Bronx and Queens armed with the question, "Se vende chapulines," only to come up empty-handed.

Celebrate the extension of the vendors' permit through the end of their season in October and add on extra festivities for Mexican and Central American Independence Day. Caesar Fuentes, the organizing force behind the vendors, promises that "the food vendors committee will host a livelier than usual weekend event - more soccer games, pinatas, music, and a 2 day art exhibit featuring photographs taken by the food vendors." Sounds good to us.

Eater confirmed that cupcake confectioner heavyweight Magnolia Bakery is opening its first branch location on Columbus Avenue and West 69th Street. Magnolia owner Steve Abrams, an Upper West Sider, told Eater, "My friends who know I own Magnolia keep asking when I'm going to open them a bakery up here. So I think it's time."

The first bowling alley to open in Brooklyn in (we can't even believe this) nearly 50 years is about to open up! The Gutter is new...but the feeling old. Brought to you by two of the same people who brought you Barcade, expect a similar vibe. There's a Schlitz globe spinning over the shoe counter, vintage bowling items adorning the bar, old lamps throughout, and even some TVs with rabbit ear antennas.

We wish we could claim this was good for you, spinach being the apotheosis of healthy food and all that, but it's really mostly made of carbs and butter. Tasty, tasty carbs and butter. This is our current favorite pasta dish. We love the way the red lentils look like jewels on the pasta, the utter gingeriness of the dish, and the burst of flavor from the spinach.

According to Wikipedia (and an unholy number of online gambling sites), the modern slot machine owes a debt to a mechanical device invented in 1880’s Brooklyn by Sittman and Pitt. This original machine had 5 internal spinning barrels, each painted with 10 different card faces. Good cards on the machine meant things like free drinks for bar customers with lucky nickels. Bad cards led only to bar customers loading more money into the machines.

Last we checked, The Moondance Diner was going to live out the rest of its life in the country. A couple from La Barge, Wyoming purchased it, moved it and declared it would be reopened for the residents of their town.

This week Bruni one-stars Bar Stuzzichini. Says that overall the restaurant is “an honorable effort worthy of note. Its dishes include more successes than failures.” However, service is flawed, lighting unflattering and the space itself “evocative of…a Midtown mess hall.”

Got a tidbit for us? Send it to the feedbag.

U.S. District Court Judge Richard Holwell found that fast food restaurants do not need to make their calorie information more prominent. Last December, the Health Department had voted that national chain restaurants, which already have caloric information, should display that info on menus or menu boards. Naturally, the fast food industry protested, because it's very hard to order a Big Mac when it says "540 calories, 29 grams of fat"! And, crap, an Oreo McFlurry is 560 calories!

For some reason we've had a thing about Antarctic expeditions and libations lately. It all started with an evening of Antarctic cuisine at the Explorer's Club last week sponsored by Redwood Creek Wines.

For some reason we've had a thing about Antarctic expeditions and libations lately. It all started with an evening of Antarctic cuisine at the Explorer's Club last week sponsored by Redwood Creek Wines.

We expect a lot from our beer. It needs to be refreshing. It needs to be bold and flavorful. And it needs to keep us as excited on the last sip as we were when the first pass crossed our lips. For us, a truly great beer is the one that keeps going after most beers have stopped. So when we came across Endurance Pale Ale on tap at Drop Off Service in the East Village we thought if the name matches the brewer’s philosophy then we might be in for one tasty Saturday afternoon (weekend happy hour special of $3 and $4 pints ends by 8pm).

This week on food-TV, we've got:

One of the most well revered and talented chefs working in the city these days is Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park. Humm first learned his trade working at a few top rated restaurants in his native Switzerland, and credits Gérard Rabraey at the Michelin 3 star Le Pont De Brent as his mentor. Now in New York, the chef (who will turn 31 at the end of the month) continues to develop his particular style of cuisine at Eleven Madison Park, which received a 3 star rating from the New York Times in January. We sat down with Daniel Humm last week in the restaurant’s dining room to talk about influences, food television, and what happens when a bunch of chefs get together and Daniel Boulud decides to make scrambled eggs with truffles at 1 AM.

You nominated your favorites and now the finalists have been revealed:

It would seem to be nothing less than dereliction of duty for an Italian-American food writer to have never been to the Italian food mecca that is Arthur Avenue, but it does on occasion happen. This oversight is even more glaring given that said food writer is half Calabrese and had never set foot in the Calabria Pork Store.

It would seem to be nothing less than dereliction of duty for an Italian-American food writer to have never been to the Italian food mecca that is Arthur Avenue, but it does on occasion happen. This oversight is even more glaring given that said food writer is half Calabrese and had never set foot in the Calabria Pork Store.

Kunjip might be a misleading name for a small low-ceiling Korean restaurant that translates into “big house” in English. Big or small, Kunjip, a 32nd street K-town fixture, is nearly always packed—and mostly with Koreans. Service is brusque—non-existent really--starting from the moment you are shoved menus (one with pictures, another written) about the variety of stews, rice dishes, grilled meats, noodles, and myriad soups—while you’re still waiting in line for a table. Before even being seated, it’s likely your food order will be taken, and those unfamiliar with Korean dishes are only pressured to make up their minds quickly.

Vynl, 507 Columbus AvenueOn three separate nights cameras caught the critters feasting "on scraps that were left on the dirty kitchen floor and climbing over crates of glassware" at Da Silvano's (pictured top left). The owner there said the problem was caused by nearby construction and recent renovations and claimed he will be throwing out everything edible in the restaurant and starting fresh. Ah, not even the celeb hot spots can escape the wrath of roaches and rodents.

Oysters, Guiness, Irish music -- what more do you need, really. Head to Riverside Park for this free festival -- oysters and Guiness available for purchase. Hudson Beach Cafe, 103rd St, at Riverside Park, 4-9:30 PM, call (917) 370-3448 for more information.

Last Monday was one of those sweltering August days, which is why Gothamist was quite glad to kick off the evening at Kyotofu with the house cocktail, a refreshing combination of sesame shochu and raspberry. Refreshing as the cocktails were, we must admit that's not what drew us to Kyotofu that night. We were there to drink (and talk) sake.

Last Monday was one of those sweltering August days, which is why Gothamist was quite glad to kick off the evening at Kyotofu with the house cocktail, a refreshing combination of sesame shochu and raspberry. Refreshing as the cocktails were, we must admit that's not what drew us to Kyotofu that night. We were there to drink (and talk) sake.

Not everything has to be complicated. These napoleons are dead simple and utterly delicious. The chocolate layers are made of an easy-schmeasy faux chocolate mousse, made by melting chocolate into heavy cream, chilling it, and whipping it like whipped cream. Phyllo is purchased, layered, and baked with minimal effort. And raspberries, oh, luscious, seasonal raspberries!

This week in the Times, Bruni two-stars Soto, calls the restaurant “an unipalooza like none I’ve encountered.” Don’t stick to the sushi and sashimi; if you do, you’re “missing not only the best of this restaurant but also the point of it.” The service? “Sluggish and absent-minded.”

This week in the Times, Bruni two-stars Soto, calls the restaurant “an unipalooza like none I’ve encountered.” Don’t stick to the sushi and sashimi; if you do, you’re “missing not only the best of this restaurant but also the point of it.” The service? “Sluggish and absent-minded.”

• On a hunt for the best mac and cheese in the city? See if you can make your way through this list. Enjoy the food coma afterwards and ponder the origin of the word "marconus".
• Texas barbecue shrine Hill Country now delivers. Amen.
• Adam Roberts, a.k.a. The Amateur Gourmet, has made the blog-to-book leap, with How to Shop, Chop, and Table Hop Like a Pro (Almost), and is parading around the internets on a virtual book tour.

Diamond asked the residents of New York City's most diverse nabe about their food preferences and solicited recipes. Her project, which is being presented by the Queens Museum of Art, runs through October 14. The goal of "This Is What Eat," is to "unite and empower its readers through food." Based on the diversity of recipes it seems to be a resounding success. The dishes run the cultural gamut from red beans and rice and macaroni cheese to shrimp ceviche and Belgium Chicken Soup.

Diamond asked the residents of New York City's most diverse nabe about their food preferences and solicited recipes. Her project, which is being presented by the Queens Museum of Art, runs through October 14. The goal of "This Is What Eat," is to "unite and empower its readers through food." Based on the diversity of recipes it seems to be a resounding success. The dishes run the cultural gamut from red beans and rice and macaroni cheese to shrimp ceviche and Belgium Chicken Soup.