The NY Times' Sam Sifton goes to two restaurants situated in hotels: Plein Sud at the Smyth Hotel in TriBeCa and Wall & Water at the Financial District Hyatt. Plein Sud, whose chef is Ed Cotton, currently appearing in this season of Top Chef, has "camera ready" food, "beautifully composed and ready for its close-up," with a "handsome crowd" and a "not unpleasant" decor. But the food itself seems ready for the chopping block: Sifton finds it "lacking in flavor, texture, temperature or interest: room-service fare that leads to increased loneliness, raiding of the minibar, sleepless hours staring at the television in blue light, thinking about home." One dish was a "mushy skate wing with a brown-butter sauce that ran very close to scorched, defining the taste of inattention."
On the other hand, Wall & Water seems to attract the hotel's readymade customers of "men and women poring over the drafts of PowerPoint presentations while stabbing at vegetables, terribly alone, or families in repose, children whining over milk, parents staring wordless and exhausted at the ceiling," but Chef Maximo Lopez May's "food, which looks to the Hudson Valley for ingredients and to both South America and New England for preparation, can soar... salt-cod casserole might follow, like something out of 1870 Beacon Hill, with peas and potatoes and cream; or pork-belly confit out of the modern age, with sautéed collards and rosemary-scented apples, with a fat-cutting horseradish sauce."
The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema visits three wine bars, Aria in the West Village, Pinkerton in Williamsburg and Enoteca in Carroll Gardens. He finds Aria to be loud with questionable service ("One evening, when I switched from white to red, the waiter poured the new wine into the old glass as I sat there, astonished") but the food is "surprisingly good." However, "Aria might just be a cocktail lounge pretending to be a wine bar," given its "24 mixed drinks but only 16 wines." Pinkerton is appealing enough, even though it just offers up cheese for noshing, because of its affordable wines: "Let's call Pinkerton a discount wine bar." Enoteca occupies a large space and boasts "dozens of interesting" wines and a sprawling menu as well—"running from classic Italian and Italian-American fare, to wood-oven pizzas and calzones, to bruschette and panini, to a salad selection that will make dieters very happy"—leading him to reveal, "my date and I couldn't shake the impression that Enoteca on Court is really a full-service restaurant masquerading as a wine bar. Which isn't such a bad thing, is it?"
Andrea Thompson of the New Yorker heads to Luke's Lobster on the Upper East Side, noting the crowds—"On a recent evening, the line to order extended out the door and down the sidewalk, with one double-parking customer causing a noisy traffic jam"— and makes us hungry for the $14 signature item, a lobster roll with "utter simplicity of preparation: top-sliced bun, buttered and toasted, a light smear of mayo, a full quarter pound of lobster meat, a shake of what’s mostly celery salt, a drizzle of lemon-infused butter."
The Times' Oliver Strand examines some of the recent pizzerias to open up: The East Village's Totale Pizza has plastic tables and a not-quite knowledgeable (yet) staff, "But the oven is kept at an infernal temperature, and the pizzas arrive charred and tangy. The margherita with bufala mozzarella ($11.75) holds its own, and the Bianca ($9.75), with mozzarella, ricotta, olives and garlic, is creamy, intense and satisfying." Olio Pizza e Più in Greenwich Village shines with "less opulent" flavors, "like the caprese ($15), a riff on the classic margherita with cherry tomatoes and bufala mozzarella" though "the combination of smoked mozzarella, grilled pumpkin and speck in the Vesuvio ($18) is so natural that it’s a classic in the making." Paulie Gee's in Greenpoint has pizza crusts with more body, but they are inconsistent.
The Voice's Sarah DiGregorio visits Nuela in the Flatiron District: "One night, we sat next to a group of what looked like Jersey Shore extras who got progressively drunker until one girl got up and shrieked at her tablemates at the top of her lungs: 'I've got to peeee!' Meanwhile, we were eating food that went from great—a surf clam ceviche with watermelon—to really good—veal-tongue escabeche—to silly—a king-crab-leg dish that would compare unfavorably to the offerings at a Vegas buffet." Nuela was originally going to be a Douglas Rodriguez affair, but he abandoned the huge (literally—it's 3,000 square feet) project and Adam Schop took over as chef/owner. DiGregorio recommends the ceviches, like "one combining surf clam with a cylinder of lightly grilled watermelon and brunoise of multicolored heirloom tomatoes," "because the rest of the menu is seriously (and expensively) hit-or-miss."