This week David Chang's Má Pêche, his first foray out of the East Village, is on the receiving end of three critical appraisals. The most significant is Sam Sifton's two star review in the Times, which deems it "a very good restaurant for a Midtown business lunch, a celebratory steak dinner or a drink and some snacks after work... Má Pêche is the first Momofuku restaurant truly suitable for dining with those the Internet calls the olds. (Though like some of its forebears, it takes no reservations.) Eating there is a little like visiting your formerly bohemian artist friend, whom you haven’t seen since he signed with Deitch and bought a double loft in TriBeCa."
Bloomberg's Ryan Sutton says Má Pêche "ranks among New York’s best steakhouses. Think of it as an easier-to-get- into Minetta Tavern, minus the glamour... There’s one steak. It’s like no other. The $29 cut comes from the shoulder. It’s cooked sous-vide for 15 hours to melt the fat, then seared. The concentrated, supremely flavorful cut taste likes what would happen if a steer was raised on nothing but dry-aged steer. The pairing? Crunchy, chewy rice flour fries, made for dipping in malty, MSG-flavored Maggi sauce." And Sarah DiGregorio at the Village Voice Voice declares that "good food battles a terrible room" at Má Pêche, "where the whole room feels like a tent, murky and close."
Also in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers Momokowa, which specializes in the food of Kyoto, "a city 200 miles west of Tokyo with its own venerable micro-cuisine...The heart of the menu are obanzai, home-style dishes from Kyoto. Most scrumptious is a hamburger-size fish cake—chunky and sweet, fried till the outside is caramel-colored. Another revelation is boiled yam cake, a pile of wobbly purple cubes that might be mistaken for thick Jell-O, splashed with spicy soy sauce. You've probably never had anything quite like it."
The Post's Steve Cuozzo says, "It pays to yell yourself hoarse at The Lion, the latest hot-because-it’s-hot spot where clubby design and/or media-money backing ensure months of chatter online and a crush at the door. Otherwise no one will hear you — certainly not the waiters, who negotiate aisles narrower than the pipes in this entertainingly decorated 19th-century brownstone... The Lion is no Hotel Griffou or Kenmare, downtown “scenes” in vain search of cuisine — it’s a real restaurant with decent food. But neither is it another Waverly Inn, where Lion chef/owner John DeLucie ran the kitchen."
Time Out's Jay Cheshes is let down by Fornino's Park Slope debut. "There’s a good reason why grilled pizza—dough stretched thin and blackened over an open flame—has yet to become a national phenomenon," writes Cheshes. "Even at its best, it remains an acquired regional taste (particular to Providence), neither as nuanced as Neapolitan style nor as irresistibly gooey as the thin-crust New York or deep-dish Chicago pies. The grilled pizzas at the new Fornino Park Slope—slim and crisp as crackers—aren’t likely to win many converts."
And GQ's Alan Richman files on Adour Alain Ducasse at The St. Regis New York hotel, which opened two years ago but has a new executive chef, Didier Elena. "His food is more explicitly French than that of Daniel Boulud at Restaurant Daniel and more rustic than that of Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park," writes Richman. "It is so appealing, so absolutely convincing, that if Adour doesn't thrive under him it might be that classic French food is doomed. Of course, there is an alternate scenario that has nothing to do with my theory: If Adour does not succeed, it might be because it is too pricey for the times. The restaurant, which one of my guests described as 'a jewelry box,' might partly feel that way because appetizers approach $30 and main courses $50. I kept telling myself how cheap that was compared to equivalent restaurants in France."