The falafel-wrapped albondigas (meatballs) with green tahini, courtesy We Heart New York. Balaboosta, the Mulberry Street Israeli restaurant from the owner of West Village falafel joint Taim, gets the Times treatment today. It's a one star rave. "[Chef/owner Einat] Admony smiles sometimes," writes Sam Sifton. "She can definitely cook.There is that semi-completed hummus to start, whole chickpeas rising out of a tahini bath in a marble mortar, crushed chickpeas beneath them, ready to be finished with an accompanying pestle. Dip warm, herb-laden pita into the mixture, sparkly with lemon juice, fragrant with roasted garlic. Consumed, it provides a taste of an Israeli idyll, the feeling of a warm breeze off the Mediterranean to ruffle your hair. (If you have hair.)"
Upper East Side Mexican wrestling-themed restaurant Cascabel Taqueria "is so cramped, it even outsources its bathrooms: You have to wander outside into the tenement hallway to find them," writes Robert Sietsema at the Village Voice. "But after the first uncomfortable bite, you'll fall in love." His colleague Sarah DiGregorio files on "cleaned-up Southern classics" restaurant Seersucker in Carroll Gardens, where "the grits are found beneath a pile of shrimp, bland and so gummy they stick to the bottom of the plate." But at the "thoroughly enjoyable" Peaches HotHouse in Bed-Stuy, "the grits are served under shrimp or braised short ribs, the porridge luscious and molten with at least half its weight in butter."
The New Yorker's Katherine Stirling is seduced by Bay Ridge restaurant Tanoreen, "a place that revels in temptation—and, even more so, in sating it... Palestinian-born chef Rawia Bishara’s cooking combines Middle Eastern techniques with Mediterranean flavors. But she takes cues from other cuisines, too. An eggplant napoleon is an ode to its principal ingredient, as well as an inspired marriage of textures: layers of feathery fried eggplant rest daintily between smears of baba ghanoush."
Time Out's Jay Cheshes gives three out of five stars to the Lion, "Gotham’s most democratic high-profile restaurant... This is first and foremost a John DeLucie establishment. The chef—still the co-owner of the Waverly Inn—is an imposing presence, greeting friends in the dining room one minute, expediting dishes the next. His new restaurant, inspired by the West Village landmark that thrived at this brownstone locale in the ’60s (also the gay joint where Barbra Streisand made her singing debut), offers a reimagining of that bohemian haunt... Like the city’s other clubby spots, the food takes a backseat to the scene. Which isn’t to say that it’s not often delicious."
And Betsy Andrews goes $25 and Under for the Times, reviewing three sandwich shops that go beyond "the same old sandwich suspects." Prospect Lefferts Garden take-out spot Exquisite earns its name with items like the West Indian saltfish and bake. Cheeky Sandwiches on Orchard Street is "a charmingly rustic New Orleans-flavored shop" that opens at 8 a.m. with mini-beignets (3 for $1) and chicory-blended coffee. "But if you want a truly rare taste of the Big Easy, go during lunch and order the half-and-half po’ boy, dressed ($8.50). You’ll get oysters on one side, shrimp on the other." And at Brancaccio’s Food Shop in Kensington, the "real winner is an old New York favorite, the meatball sub ($8). When you watch them making the meatballs in the open kitchen, adding pine nuts and raisins just as the chef and owner Joe Brancaccio’s grandmother did to hers, you know these meatballs are light, beefy and fun to eat; so is a tomato sauce that’s shot through with fennel."