Takashi's logo This week Sam Sifton at the Times enthuses about Takashi, "a modest and wondrous strange new restaurant on Hudson Street in the West Village that specializes in raw offal and Korean-style Japanese barbecue. They are simple exciting dishes: a taste of passion best consumed with cold sake and an open mind...Two philosophies are at work within it. The first has to do with the quality of the meat, which is superior to anything you will find in a traditional Korean barbecue restaurant, at least in Manhattan. The second has to do with the diversity of the cuts of meat Mr. Inoue offers his customers. The overarching point of Takashi is to celebrate the cow in its entirety." Ha, and what better way to celebrate animals than by slaughtering them?
The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema is in Sheepshead Bay (where else?), filing on two Turkish restaurants on Emmons Avenue. Halikarnas is "named after a humongous outdoor disco in Bodrum, on Turkey's southwest coast. Brooklyn's Halikarnas pales in comparison to the original (where weekly 'foam parties' fill the premises with fluffy, waist-high suds)." Halikarnas is "wholesome and well-priced" but outshined by the "spectacular" Marmaris. And the Voice's Sarah DiGregorio reviews chef Ryan Skeen's Harlem restaurant 5 & Diamond, where she lauds "the cooking of a chef who loves big flavors skewed toward the brighter, lighter ethos of spring. (Don't worry: The drippy burger is back and as good as ever, as are a few other lipid-soaked pleasures.)"
Jay Cheshes gives the newly relocated Hecho en Dumbo four out of five stars. "Beyond to-go tacos and bulging burritos, New York’s Mexican options were once pretty bleak," writes Cheshes. "And the more ambitious restaurants were pricey and fussy. In the past few years, however, a new breed of cantina has helped bring life to the genre. These rollicking places—serious about cooking, yes, but also devoted to tequila-shot benders—aren’t Tex-Mex or Cal-Mex; hip-Mex is more like it. Hecho en Dumbo joins Cabrito, La Esquina and Barrio Chino in this new pantheon." The Times also approves, and features a photo of the same delicious-looking dish as Time Out: Hecho en Dumbo’s tacos de costilla "bones and all."
And GQ's Alan Richman trashes Ted's Montana Grill in midtown, which is owned by Ted Turner, who killed some American Bison who wandered onto his range and slaughtered them for his restaurants. "I don't want to save our buffalo from Ted Turner," writes Richman. "I want to save them from Ted Turner's kitchens. Perfectly sensible in concept is the plate of bison pot roast, potatoes, and green beans. The tragedy is that the pot roast was overcooked, stringy, and covered in thick brown gravy; the potatoes were dry and lumpy; and the beans had been cooked nearly to mush... Buffalo at least have rights groups out there defending them from abuse. Pity the mashed potatoes, or for that matter the macaroni and cheese. Nobody speaks for them."