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Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

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Faustina
While acknowledging that Scott Conant (Scarpetta) is a "phenomenally talented chef," Times critic Sam Sifton is frustrated by Faustina, Conant's new venture in the Cooper Square Hotel. It's not the food—which is "excellent"—it's the space, which formerly housed the defunct Table 8. Faustina "offers what may be the city’s best pork chop, a shoebox-size Berkshire behemoth currently recommended for two or more diners; it might serve four, and happily," says Sifton. "You can find a wealth of interesting raw-bar small bites and bread-dippers, delicate salads and ridiculously hearty, delicious pastas... But no matter the meal, you will eat it uncomfortably, in a tough concrete dining room that juts off a large bar crowded with tall tables, in what is unmistakably an institutional setting, down to the space on the check where you can sign the bill to your room."

Time Out's Jay Cheshes also files on Faustina this week, deeming it "a serious Italian restaurant with a sumptuous burger (with melted Taleggio and caramelized onions), awful fried chicken (with an oversalted cardboard crust) and a big middling steak (a $37 on-the-bone sirloin with a bitter grilled char)... But a good Italian meal awaits—if you choose carefully."

The barroom at Portuguese restaurant O Lavrador in Jamaica is the place to be according to the Village Voice's Robert Sietsema: "After I'd left the restaurant, my friend Mike, who'd stayed behind to wait for the LIRR train back to Brooklyn, texted: 'Next time you visit, try the serradura.' I looked up the word in my Portuguese dictionary and it means 'sawdust'—which is not too appealing, until you discover the word also refers to a pudding made with stale, ground-up cookies. But it sounds better if you call it 'culinary recycling.'" His colleague Sarah DiGregorio says that while the food at Istanbul Café on 57th Street is "not exactly cheap—entrées average $15—it is relatively affordable, and a boon to that part of midtown."

The New Yorker's Andrea Thompson is mostly pleased with Roman's, which replaced Bonita in Fort Greene (but is still under the same ownership Marlow & Sons ownership). "That many of the guests seem to be friends of the staff, or neighbors in for their weekly supper, gives it the happy hecticness of a house party," writes Thompson. But ugh: "The studied amateurishness of the atmosphere infects the service in slightly annoying ways. Trying to help a table select a wine, a waiter offered two ambiguous adjectives: 'fleshy' and 'funky.' Inquiring about the provenance of the meat elicited a look of disdain, as if it should be unnecessary to have to say that it was locally sourced."

And Adam Platt files on two French bistros for New York: Bistro de la Gare in the West Village and Alain Ducasse’s Benoit in midtown. At the former, "the dishes on the entrée list are fairly ambitious for a fifteen-table joint, and the best of them tend to be more Italian than French." At the latter, chef Pierre Schaedelin "has revamped and expanded the classic brasserie menu, instilling it with some much-needed professional zip."

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