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Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

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Choptank's chicken (courtesy Always Hungry)
This week Sam Sifton at the Times bestows zero stars on Choptank, the new Chesapeake Bay-themed restaurant in the Village. In Times parlance, zero stars (out a potential four) means "satisfactory," but Sifton is not satisfied, and he really unloads on what he perceives to be the restaurant's affected preppy posturing: "The restaurant evokes the Chesapeake region in the way that dorm rooms at Johns Hopkins do: Duck Head khakis in the dresser and lacrosse sticks leaning against the des..." Peel-and-eat shrimp is served "as neatly stacked as socks from the Gap, a full dozen meaty, slightly overdone fatties wedged into a heavy serving tray. The effect is jarring, as if Mrs. Astor had served you a New York hot dog on silver plate, then nodded ever so pointedly toward your knife and fork." But "seriously, dude: awesome fries."

Sifton also hates on Brooklyn Heights Southern comfort restaurant Bread and Butte: "The fried chicken... has barely a lead on what you’d find at a steam-table salad bar somewhere along Second Avenue late one winter night on your way home from work. So this is a taste of the new economy: first-apartment food in a bedroom community one stop from Wall Street, comforting only in name. It’s depressing." His colleague Julia Moskin offers a mixed review on Long Island City's Testaccio Ristorante, which serves contemporary Roman cuisine. "Dinner pulls in a mix of lawyers (Queens courts are nearby), local families and mad-hatted hipsters," writes Moskin. "The room is plated with stone and metal (the owners are in the construction business), but comfortable chairs and a wood-burning oven in the dining room make it friendly."

The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema is in Bay Ridge this week, where he lauds the recently-expanded Middle Eastern restaurant Tanoreen (which also got the Times treatment last week), and Greek restaurant Athena Express, where "the best thing we tasted was the moussaka ($9.95)... If you think you hate anything called 'casserole,' Athena Express's moussaka might just beat the pants off your mom's tuna noodle hot dish."

Mike Peed at The New Yorker pens a reliably amusing review of The Standard Grill, where he is not amused: "At the Grill, witticisms proliferate...The Deal Closer, a dessert in the form of a vat of chocolate mousse, presumably refers to a subject more stimulating than real estate. When the waiters, dressed in matching plaid pants and waistcoats, forget to take your drink order, dally with bringing the bread, and generally dematerialize, this is known as a Standardelay... Counterintuitively, the food here isn’t a postscript, though the chef, Dan Silverman, misses as often as he hits."

"Brand-building chefs tend to do less actual cooking as their empires expand, and that’s been the case with [Tom] Colicchio," writes New York's Adam Platt. "But now he’s returned to the kitchen with Colicchio & Sons, a venture that has its roots in the big-box Vegas period (it occupies the cavernous former Craftsteak space on Tenth Avenue) but attempts to recapture the spare, folksy magic of the farm-to-table boom, which he helped create during the Craft period... But like the retro trendy name, those touches don’t muffle the uneasy sense that with this restaurant, Colicchio and his talented cohort of cooks are behind the curve, battling to catch up."

And Time Out's Jay Cheshes is also meh on Choptank, where, "oddest of all, the restaurant’s most theme-appropriate fare is also its most poorly executed. Hard-shell clams in a potent garlic-soaked broth arrive steamed until rubbery. A fillet of pink ocean trout, in an austere entrée, is artfully draped over a bed of bacon-studded French lentils with flaccid skin and overcooked, mealy flesh."

Contact the author of this article or email tips@gothamist.com with further questions, comments or tips.

Comments [rss]

  • hunter.blatherer

    Clearly the second part of this article is more important than the first.

  • i2hellfire

    bold tags run amuck!

  • Fixed, thanks.

  • hunter.blatherer

    I thought gothamist was developing its own version of the Drudge siren.

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