Novitá This week Sam Sifton at the Times upgraded untrendy Italian restaurant Novitá from one star to two, calling it "a perfect neighborhood trattoria." The neighborhood is Gramercy, the city New York, and "in any other metropolis in North America, it would be well known among that city’s best places to eat. In many cities, it would sit atop the heap. But in New York, a lot of people have never heard of the place. (How cool is that?) This is testament to the strength of our restaurant scene, to the sheer abundance of good restaurants here. And Novitá is a very good restaurant." The Times Dining section also highlights Ghanaian restaurant Papaye in the Bronx as a great "$25 and under" option, noting that it "may challenge your expectations as well as your dexterity, but it can be deeply satisfying."
In Fort Greene, the Village Voice's Robert Sietsema checks out Roman's, from the guys who used to operate Bonita in the same space. "Early reports about Roman's—which opened in mid-November—characterized it as an Italian restaurant," writes Sietsema. "These are the best part of the menu, even though the small size of the servings might drive you crazy. Take bucatini with clam sauce ($12): My date and I counted just eight long strands of pasta in the bowl after we'd sucked down the four tiny manila clams on top. The pasta was tasty, but this wasn't a case of less equals more." His colleague Sarah Di Gregorio has a blast at Izakaya Moku in Koreatown, describing it as "a loud, lively emporium of yakitori, sashimi, noodles, tempura, and tonkatsu, plus a few Korean preparations... Bring a big group and stay a while."
The New Yorker's Andrea Thompson files on wildly popular gastropub The Breslin, where "the pork itself, rich and bacony, inspires gluttony, and maybe a bit of guilt. On a recent evening, after polishing off a large hunk, one diner patted her stomach and groaned, 'I’m pregnant with pig!'"
Adam Platt at New York says the Tipsy Parson, a Southern comfort restaurant in Chelsea, is losing focus. "Since this popular, consistently crowded restaurant opened, several of the more traditionalist southern-style appetizers and entrées appear to have been excised from the menu," Platt opines. "There were no chicken and dumplings available on my last visit, and the braised pork shank with chunky applesauce had been removed, in favor of an overbrined pork chop served with grits and braised cabbage." And Corsino, the latest from the Denton brothers ('inoteca), is just okay in Platt's eyes: "None of the pastas or entrées costs over $20, and most are competent in a serviceable, professional way, but not outstanding."
And Time Out's Jay Cheshes files on two new museum restaurants, The Wright in the Guggenheim and Robert in the Museum of Arts & Design. Each snags a mere two stars out of five: "The Wright, the slightly superior of these two ill-conceived restaurants, occupies the broom closet that last housed the museum’s humdrum café. The larger Robert, atop the Museum of Arts & Design, features much better views—across Central Park—but even less comfortable environs, with too many seats squeezed into a cramped space... At both museums, the decor outshines the food."