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Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

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Maialino (Katie Sokoler/Gothamist)
Pork "is at the heart of the menu" in the Gramercy Park Hotel's new Maialino, says Sam Sifton, in a two-star review. Danny Meyer's new trattoria "looks like a Pottery Barn. But the bar is custom work: elegant and spare. It’s as pleasant a place for a breakfast coffee or lunch salad as for an evening glass of Frascati." Maialino serves classics from spaghetti alla carbonara to stracciatella, but the showpieces are the pork-inspired dishes. "Loin, belly, ribs and shoulder, these become the restaurant’s centerpiece meal, maialino al forno, which appears only to be listed as a special to avoid having a $72 entree on a menu that otherwise tops out at $32....pork at its best."

The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema attended a meeting of the Organ Meat Society at Northeast Taste Chinese Food, a Flushing restaurant known for its organ dishes. Plates of everything from hearts to kidneys were served, but unfortunately "the bowels we'd eaten already and those we were about to eat were frankly fecal-tasting." The menu amused with some rough Chinese translations, such as "crispy colorectal," "corn with corn," and "stupid chicken with wild mushrooms," and not everything was so foul tasting. The "crispy colorectal" turned out to have a "licoricey spice that masked the skunky taste—proving that anise and anus go surprisingly well together."

The New Yorker's Lila Byock thinks Red Hook's Fort Defiance should be known for its drinks and not much else. Though "nothing on the menu is unappetizing," the "pork-potato hash was bland, a Dutch apple pancake seemed oddly puddinglike, and the muffuletta was sabotaged by its flimsy bread." However, that can all just be used for soaking up the Breakfast Martini, which is "mixed with gin and marmalade, was bracing and refined, like a hemisphere of grapefruit presented on a silver tray," or a more traditional Vesper, "as crisp as Bond's tuxedo."

One-upping Maialino's pork paradise seems to be the Breslin Bar & Dining Room, which Jay Cheshes says "breaks new gluttonous ground." On an empty stomach "the new gastropub delivers a near-perfect dining experience," with entrees like pigs-foot-for-two and terrine with guinea hen. But "the pork belly roulade delivers an exquisite rejoinder to anyone who insists it’s time to retire the cut. Sweet, smoky and fragrant with red wine and apples, it may be the best thing to happen to bellies since David Chang."

Alan Richman of GQ raves about Brooklyn Kitchen, calling his meal the "most outrageously wonderful, unfathomably underpriced, and virtually unattainable meal in New York." Their chef's table dinner is $95 a person, seasonal, byob, and certainly too exclusive for the masses. His 16-course meal consisted of "jumbo crab lump encased in kataif," "bouncy foie gras with the texture of sponge cake," and "single Mayan shrimp, head-on, presented in a modest puddle of pomegranate reduction and mustard oil." As for how to actually enjoy this meal, Richman suggests "you phone immediately, ask for a reservation (almost no chance) and settle for a spot on the waiting list." Godspeed.

Contact the author of this article or email tips@gothamist.com with further questions, comments or tips.

Comments [rss]

  • famdoc

    Richman is dead wrong about the chef's kitchen table meal being "virtually unattainable" (although that may change now that he's blown its cover): depending upon your party's size, you can get a reservation for early February by calling today. If you want the entire table for 12, the wait is about three months.

    He is correct, however, in calling it one of the "most outrageously wonderful, unfathomably underpriced" meals in NYC. Cesar Ramirez is a master and creates a 4 hour, 15 minute experience that guests will remember forever...all for $95. The BYO, which may not last forever, is a real plus.

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