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Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

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La Grenouille
This week Sam Sifton at the Times swoons over the 47-year-old French restaurant La Grenouille, which was last reviewed by the paper in 1993, and received three stars. Sifton upholds the rating status quo, while declaring it "the last great French restaurant in New York... The revelations start early. A waiter brings an amuse-bouche, perhaps more perfunctorily than is currently normal in most New York restaurants... 'This is a split pea soup,' he says. The offering is roughly four spoonfuls’ worth. Each is a cloud of magnificent flavor — salt that raises the vegetal from its depths, cream that makes it buoyant. It lingers on the tongue. The tiny dish expands the mind."

Sifton also enjoys the vodka and apps at Mari Vanna in the West Village. And he gives some love to Trini-Gul, a new Caribbean takeout restaurant in Crown Heights, where "the bake and shark in particular is terrific ($5), both bright and earthy, like a humid, sunny day at Maracas Bay outside of Port of Spain." The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema opines on the best dining and drinking trends of 2009: Ramen, noodles, dumplings, chile peppers and "the rise of the neighborhood Thai" all make his list.

Ryan Sutton at Bloomberg News files on Abe & Arthurs and Tanuki Tavern, both in the Meatpacking District. At the former, "a full menu is served at the bar, which is not conducive to dining; hard surfaces make noise levels unbearable. Perhaps our truffle fries never arrived because our server didn’t hear us order them." Tanuki, the new venture from Jeffrey Chodorow in the Hotel Gansevoort, "is the rare Chodorow spot that offers semi-authentic, mostly satisfying cuisine. Expect a mishmash of snacks (great fried bok choy or corn and miso dumplings), mishaps (overly fatty and rare short ribs), hibachi-grill items (Nobu-style miso black cod) and the owner’s favorite ingredient, Wagyu beef, which is served in a $26 lobster roll that tastes neither of good shellfish nor pricey meat."

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Comments [rss]

  • Snoopy

    BTW I've been to L'Escargot in gay Paris and found the food there acceptable but memorable. Plus they serve these slugs in reused shells in a very delicate creme sauce for a lot of money.

    Albeit they do have a very nice spiral staircase.

  • Snoopy

    In addition I read the full review of the restaurant done in the Times and it makes me want to puke. The pompous little twerp that wrote it wouldn't even be let into the restaurant if he wasn't so overly flowering and flamboyant. I can just imagine the color of his loafers that he wore for the occasion.

    If you find eating animal organs in a delicate creme sauce as the epitome of fine food, I would suggest you go back to eating bush meat.

  • Snoopy

    In a delicate creme sauce.

  • JMH

    How is "neighborhood Thai" a 2009 trend? There have been little neighborhood Thai restaurants all around the city for years.

  • Snoopy

    "Each is a cloud of magnificent flavor — salt that raises the vegetal from its depths, cream that makes it buoyant. It lingers on the tongue. The tiny dish expands the mind." Maybe so, but it sure looks like an overpriced skimpy portion of split-pea soup to me. I was thinking more the in the line of a good Campbell's Chunky style portion. You know, "a meal in a can."

    "$26 lobster roll" Are you nuts? I can get two of those delivered from my local Chinese restaurant for under five bucks including tip.

  • SP

    You clearly have no idea what a lobster roll is. Or an amuse bouche for that matter. You should stick to commenting on things of which you have at least a faint inkling of understanding. Which is very little.

  • Snoopy

    Oops my bad. The $26 lobster roll was being served at another restaurant. My deepest apology to the chef at Grenwee. Could you ask him to hold the salt and the cream from my pea soup? I'm on a low salt low fat diet.

  • chorosch

    What are you talking about? I'm not saying there's anything wrong with Campbell's soup or chicken wings, but why even bother posting on this topic if you expect an amuse bouche to "eat like a meal?"

  • SP

    Like I said, he has no idea what he is talking about, but likes to post this kind of snarky shit to make himself feel smarter than he really is (not too hard to do.)

  • Snoopy

    If you want to amuse your mouth how about eating half a jar of Jalapeno peppers and half a geranium plant.

  • Snoopy

    Ease up you two. I like informal French dining myself. Like a Big Mac with its special sauce and super sized "French" fries.

    Formal French dining? Meaning like simple food served by a staff of four hundred with a delicate creme sauce?

    It's all pretentious posing if you ask me.

    A Pan-bagnat at the Nice train station is about all I want to see of French food. Go eat your snails in a delicate creme sauce.

  • Sommelier

    "It's all pretentious posing if you ask me."

    You see... you're opening your yap about things that you have absolutely no knowledge of... and NO ONE ASKED YOU! All you're doing is acting like the little kid who says stupid things and thinks that he's being clever.

  • Snoopy

    As we speak my epouse is cooking a very amuse bouche of Pain de viande. Accompanied by a delicate creme sauced assiette de pommes de terre.

    Accompanied by a delicate 1982 Chateau Lafite Rothschild. It's a red wine if you didn't know.

  • Snoopy

    I think you are sampling too much of what you serve. AND WHO ASKED YOU?

    I'll ask you, "Why are over priced affected French restaurants no more?" Skimpy portions and waiters as well as chefs and sommeliers walking around with a cork up their ass and talk down to every one who wasn't a freedom fighter in the second world war and doesn't speak perfect French. That's why.

  • Snoopy

    I guess the amuse bouche goes along with the medallion sized portions of boeuf bourguignon served of course with a delicate creme sauce.

  • chorosch

    Um, ok. But there are thousands of cuisines, portion sizes and flavors all over the world. If formal french dining isn't for you, that's fine. But come on, this is the New York Times reviewing a 3 star restaurant. I don't think the point is that you can get different food, cheaper.

  • Snoopy

    OK I give up what is a amuse bouche? Laughing mouth? Or somezing like zat? I can get a whole lobster with rolls at Long John Silvers for around ten bucks. What makes ze lobster rolls at Grenwees so magnifique?

  • Sommelier

    "OK I give up what is a amuse bouche?"... even after you've been criticizing the restaurant over it?

    Open mouth, display ignorance. There's this newfangled thing called "the google" that can help you find out all kinds of fancy stuff on the internets. Use it. It's not our place in the universe to smarten you up.

    It's been a few years since I've eaten at Le Grenouille, and it's sad to know that it's the last bastion of Haute Cuisine in New York.

  • Snoopy

    OK I looked up Amuse Bouche and you must admit I was pretty close in my original interpretation. So the same thing can be said for KFC extra crispy wings. Except KFC doesn't call them by that amusing name.

  • Sommelier

    Very good! I'm sure that your parents are very proud of you. They don't tell anyone that you're their child... but they're very, very proud.

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