La Grenouille This week Sam Sifton at the Times swoons over the 47-year-old French restaurant La Grenouille, which was last reviewed by the paper in 1993, and received three stars. Sifton upholds the rating status quo, while declaring it "the last great French restaurant in New York... The revelations start early. A waiter brings an amuse-bouche, perhaps more perfunctorily than is currently normal in most New York restaurants... 'This is a split pea soup,' he says. The offering is roughly four spoonfuls’ worth. Each is a cloud of magnificent flavor — salt that raises the vegetal from its depths, cream that makes it buoyant. It lingers on the tongue. The tiny dish expands the mind."
Sifton also enjoys the vodka and apps at Mari Vanna in the West Village. And he gives some love to Trini-Gul, a new Caribbean takeout restaurant in Crown Heights, where "the bake and shark in particular is terrific ($5), both bright and earthy, like a humid, sunny day at Maracas Bay outside of Port of Spain." The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema opines on the best dining and drinking trends of 2009: Ramen, noodles, dumplings, chile peppers and "the rise of the neighborhood Thai" all make his list.
Ryan Sutton at Bloomberg News files on Abe & Arthurs and Tanuki Tavern, both in the Meatpacking District. At the former, "a full menu is served at the bar, which is not conducive to dining; hard surfaces make noise levels unbearable. Perhaps our truffle fries never arrived because our server didn’t hear us order them." Tanuki, the new venture from Jeffrey Chodorow in the Hotel Gansevoort, "is the rare Chodorow spot that offers semi-authentic, mostly satisfying cuisine. Expect a mishmash of snacks (great fried bok choy or corn and miso dumplings), mishaps (overly fatty and rare short ribs), hibachi-grill items (Nobu-style miso black cod) and the owner’s favorite ingredient, Wagyu beef, which is served in a $26 lobster roll that tastes neither of good shellfish nor pricey meat."