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Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

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Aureole (Katie Sokoler/Gothamist)
This week Sam Sifton at the Times files an unenthusiastic one star review on the flashy Bryant Park location of Charlier Palmer's Aureole. Palmer, a restaurant impresario who made his bones in the kitchen of the River Cafe, relocated his well-liked restaurant from the Upper East Side to the new Bank of America building this summer.

The result is "meh," says Sifton. "The bulk of the business is out in the bar, which takes up much of the restaurant’s space. It’s loud out there, informal in the corporate sense of the word: men with their jackets off, their striped shirts shiny, their watches big, all of them eating burgers, sliders, fries, draining beer, smiling at clients, on the sell. It’s a tough scene. At every table someone’s either shouting or lap dancing his phone. It’s an extremely good hamburger, though..."

The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema submits a mixed review on Abe & Arthur's, the big "comfort food" restaurant in the Meatpacking District that used to be Lotus. "The lobster bisque was crustacean perfection, a deeply pink broth that the waiter poured from a pitcher over a generous wad of fluffy white meat dotted with chives," reports Sietsema. "It made you stop and wonder—how do they deliver such a bowl of soup for only $9?... You'd do well to make a meal of apps. Not that the mains aren't also good—they're just not a good deal." His colleague Sarah DiGregorio, meanwhile, discovers that Laut, in Union Square, is "actually a very fine Malaysian restaurant masquerading as a horrible pan-Asian joint."

Leo Carey at the New Yorker files on insufferably artisanal Carroll Gardens restaurant Prime Meats: "The wood panelling and large antique bar are beautifully finished, there are gas lamps, and behind the bar is a nest of antique punch bowls (the punch changes daily). Waiters look as if they’d auditioned for Deadwood; their uniform includes braces and waistcoats, and facial hair seems to be compulsory. And cocktails abound with recherché ingredients like homemade Buddha’s-hand bitters; they are a standout, even in the context of the current cocktail renaissance...The restaurant is bound to delight the Franks’ fans, but, if there’s a weak link, it’s the food."

New York's Adam Platt is impressed with A Voce Columbus (photos) in the Time Warner Center: "Here, overlooking Columbus Circle, there was a tentative, ineffable sense of order being restored. The room was elegant without being showy, and intimate without feeling too small. The menu was moderately priced (only two entrées over $30), but filled with interesting-sounding things to eat... you can twirl your spaghetti while admiring the lights twinkling up and down the avenues and the treetops fringing Central Park. But the real revelation at the new A Voce is the cooking."

A week after the Village Voice slammed the stuffing out of sterile-looking Italian restaurant SD26, Time Out's Jay Cheshes dissents with a four star rave for the reboot of San Domenico, declaring that the "wide-ranging menu whips from highbrow to low. During white-truffle season, the dining room is fragrant with the locker room funk of exorbitant fungi, shaved to order. But diners will find plenty more modest dishes. Lush pumpkin gnocchi in a chicken-liver-and-fried-sage ragù are listed beside a butter-drenched raviolo, a San Domenico signature dish—and still one of New York’s finest pastas—oozing yolk."

GQ's Alan Richman also files on SD26, where the food is "fine" but he's stressed out by all the gizmos, from the automatic self-serve wine machine in the bar to the restaurant wine list, which is "contained within an electronic, handheld device the size and shape of a Kindle... No way am I ever going to appreciate a device that works like the entertainment center on the back of the seat in front of you when you're flying coach... One thing about waiting more than an hour for a table at SD26: By the time you're seated, you'll feel as though you've had enough training in electronics to launch ballistic missiles from a nuclear submarine."

Contact the author of this article or email tips@gothamist.com with further questions, comments or tips.

Comments [rss]

  • Areola?

  • I know, I think that all the time when I see this restaurant name.

  • Mr Mel

    The new restaurant critic of the NY Times, Sam Sifton, is the son of the recently deceased jurist, Charles P Sifton. He was the Senior Judge of the US District Court in Brooklyn who cleared the way for women to be allowed to join the NYFD and his ruling on Term Limits allowed Mayor Bloomberg to run for a third term.

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