Jewish Delis in LA Beat NYC, Says Author With Death Wish

Tuna fish and pastrami sandwiches at the Second Avenue Deli (Tien Mao)

The author of the new book Save the Deli has declared that LA has better Jewish delis than NYC, but he only says such hurtful things because he wants to see New York do better. We haven't read David Sax's heretical book, but the LA Times did, and of course they're gloating over there, because Sax says, "The [delis] that are most inspiring, the ones that people cling to, the ones that people enshrine for years and years are the traditional Jewish delis. And Los Angeles just happens to have more of them than any city I've been to." How can that be?!

Part of it has to do with the decline in Jewish delis here in New York, or so says Sax: "In the 1930s there were something along the lines of 1,500 kosher delis in New York. Now, there are about two dozen in all of New York City. That's an 80% to 90% decline." Indeed, the iconic Second Avenue Deli was replaced by a Chase Bank in the East Village, only to resurface on 33rd Street.

Meanwhile, Los Angeles delis have carved out a niche market. Over there in La La Land, "delis are the height of midcentury, suburban modernity. If New York delis are as intimate and familiar as your bubbe's kitchen, then Los Angeles delis, with their spacious banquettes, polite wait staff and abundant parking, are like younger, sexier spokesmodels for the deli world." Well, Sax, if you really think so, you can just stay on the left coast and marry one.

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By John Del Signore in Food on October 21, 2009 3:20 PM

Comments [rss]

praxis81

LA delis are more than just Canter's, which is the LA equivalent of Junior's. There's also Brent's and Langer's, the latter having pastrami that matches if not beats Katz's. These places are hardly sexy, unless sex to you means a cushioned booth vs. tables. Since when is the Carnegie Deli intimate, anyway?

NannyState

I thought Junior's in Westwood was the "LA equivalent of Junior's".

dgeee

That food reminds me of a toxic conspiracy.

NannyState

The last time anyone had good jewish in LA, Natalie Portman shaved her head and went vegetarian.

Kojak

The best Jewish Delis are located in Israel. Obviously.

gawkthis

let's see: why would he make such attacks defaming New York City? Could it be that no one would pay any attention to him at all, and he would still be trying for his 15 minutes of fame, if he confirmed what everyone else already knows: (1) there are no real jewish delis in LA (there are plenty of faux jewish delis which are the product of camera magic in LA), and (2) the best jewish delis anywhere are in NYC.

nah.

Spirit of 76

May all his teeth fall out, and may one remain as a tooth ache.

But seriously, no need to get defensive. Who knows? Maybe he's right. Who here calling Sax an idiot actually has first-hand experience with LA delis?

oofstar

i'm curious about the volume of business the delis in LA do over ours. and also, we have lots and lots and lots of not-kosher delis. does LA? because i bet that the non-kosher delis have cut into the kosher deli market here quite a bit.

MidCFrank

I love NY, but truth be told, the best Jewish delis are in Montreal.

felixthecatSUX

Gross. Canada sucks.

Potty Boy

Non-issue/no-brainer. Stay there, Sax, if you like it so much.

PKMKII

Doesn't Sax understand that NYC is automatically better at every, without having to try or prove it?

gymnasticks

haha are you serious? have you never left New York?

JMH

"Los Angeles delis, with their spacious banquettes, polite wait staff and abundant parking"

I don't need any of those things, all of which represent the style-over-substance nature of LA. I just want really good food.

hotstepper

what is a "jewish deli"?

show me one "jewish" deli without Latinos actually making the sandwiches...there ain't no yarmulkes on them heads.

Aveais Essex

Totally!

Which means any ethnic food prepared by someone who is not of that origin is a complete crock of shit!

Moron.

hotstepper

yeah! get pissed, really pissed!!

i like to keep it kosher, baby. but since you apparently don't, you can't have a slice of cheese while you eat my ass.

JenChungsBaby

Who the hell gets tuna at the Second Avenue Deli?

moocow

ugh, i've been to canter's, and it sucked. cold dry brisket? he recommends that shizz? the most popular items on their menu had some hokey-ass ny reference in their names.