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Robert Sietsema at the Village Voice files on Coconut Grove, a new South Indian addition to Curry Hill. He deems it a "sweet addition" to the district, and "the menu is so multifarious that it takes several visits to identify your favorite dishes." Meanwhile, his colleague Sarah DiGregorio writes that Fort Defiance reminds her "of why Red Hook remains one of the best neighborhoods in the city—it's insular enough that a restaurant can be filled with people who know each other, and it lets first-time restaurateurs cultivate a small, quality place." New York also says Fort Defiance "delivers."
The New Yorker's Andrea Thompson checks out the classy sports bar Warren 77, where sports fan might be disgruntled to find that "the TVs aren’t easy to see—they’re set high, at neckcraning angles—and a full third of the space has no screens at all. The best vantage point, a middle section of comfy leather booths, carries a hefty five-hundred-dollar minimum to watch an entire sporting event. Even the décor—vintage klieg lights, white roses in vases along the wall, glossy color photographs of John McEnroe and Hulk Hogan, among others—seems to signify that the owners were more interested in style than sweat."
Cranky Steve Cuozzo at the Post files on Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote in midtown, finding it heavenly: "This is the first new restaurant in a long time where I don’t feel like I’m working. No struggling to read a menu in dim light. No wasting time deciphering 22 categories the waitstaff can’t explain. No guessing which dishes would arrive when, subject to the kitchen’s whim. Just bring us the food, people! The ease of ordering at Le Relais de V L’E reminds you what a chore it’s become elsewhere." Aw, ordering on an expense account is such a burden!
And Time Out's Jay Cheshes bestows three out of five stars on Gus & Gabriel, chef Michael Psilakis's new comfort food venture on the Upper West Side (which you'll recall got eviscerated by the Times last week). Cheshes is kinder, declaring that it "fills a void in New York, offering fatty foods rarely encountered outside the Midwest. Much of it is delicious, and nearly all of it is obscene. Psilakis, who seems to be having an awfully good time, piles on fried stuff and cheese wherever he can. And just about everything—from the pickles and slaw to the relish and dogs—is made in-house from scratch."
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Is the New Yorker's Andrea Thompson the same Andrea Thompson who appeared in NYPD Blue? I had heard she left acting for television journalism and have wondered, since first seeing her byline in the New Yorker, whether she is now eating for a living.