Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

2009_08_plug.jpg
Photograph at Peter Luger's by Tien Mao
In his farewell from restaurant critic duties, the New York Times' Frank Bruni offers answers to reader question questions: For instance, in answering, "What's the best sushi place? Masa is the "absolute best" but acknowledging the $400/person price is steep, he offers Sushi Yasuda where you can have "a wonderfully intimate, pampering omakase experience...for under $100 a person... Still a major treat, but much, much more manageable." Steakhouses: For "a certain corny, musky ambience," go with Sparks for its strip; for a contemporary ambience, go with Porter House New York or BLT Prime; Keens has a great mutton chop; and while Peter Luger's has an "outstanding porterhouse, but the lights are always too bright and the service usually too gruff."

For a great value, Bruni mentions the four-star Eleven Madison Park's $88 five-course menu—with "five one-bite amuse-bouches per person, terrific gougères, unlimited bread with both goat’s milk and cow’s milk butter, an appetizer, an entree, a dessert amuse-bouche, dessert and petit fours"—and Momofuku Ssam Bar (though Eleven Madison Park, though pricier, is more comfortable). And for the underrated, some he mentions are Perbacco in the East Village and 'Cesca on the Upper West Side. Bruni also has more parting thoughts on the Diner's Journal blog.

The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema hitches a ride with the Cowgirl Sea-Horse, the South Street Seaport offshoot of the Cowgirl Hall of Fame. Some of the menu is borrowed from other downtown menus: there's "Gulf Coast's excellent seafood gumbo" and "Cottonwood Café lends its chicken-fried steak, now employing a flattened chicken breast instead of the usual tough minute steak, facetiously dubbing it 'chicken-fried chicken.' The entrée comes voluptuously sided with lumpy mashed potatoes, greasy collards, and caloric cream gravy, the type of feed that causes nutritionists to shudder. Fuck 'em!"

GQ's Alan Richman visits Umi Nom on DeKalb Avenue: "Two specials were particularly appealing. The first was an inventive arrangement of a crispy shrimp spring roll wrapped inside a veggie-based summer roll, hot inside cold, Filipino yin-and-yang. (One of my dining companions uncharitably compared it to Taco Bell’s double-decker taco.) The second was sweet and crispy pork belly, first braised, then grilled, even more appealing than Kuma Inn’s deep-fried pork belly."

"Hotel Griffou appeared to be in the Daily Candy stage of early renown, a destination for new-restaurant scalp-collectors and spotters of personages whose names in print may tip between Roman and bold," declares Nick Paumgarten of the New Yorker. While some entrees miss (like a gloppy lobster thermidor), it "has been open just two months, so it deserves some slack. Simpler stuff—such as the bacon-Gruyère burger—bears up better."

Even without a liquor license (yet), the Daily News' Danyelle Friedman enjoys The Mott, a new Nolita restaurant: The space is wonderfully quaint — a 38-seat nook furnished with romantic lighting, tin ceilings, whitewashed brick walls and a padded brown leather bar. There's a small, well-edited menu of American dishes like pan-seared cod, chilled summer tomato soup and roasted chicken with haricots vert and fingerling potatoes"—and a "perfectly cooked" ricotta gnocchi.

Time Out New York visits Veloce Pizza in the East Village, from the Bar Veloce folks—"The heavy, oily pizzas with a fine chewy crust sit like a brick, but taste great going down"—and the Meatpacking District's Standard Grill—there's a "waitstaff who turn heads at dinner—the place seems to have been staffed by a modeling agency" and two dishes that could "easily feed a family of four," a chicken ("whole golden bird in a cast-iron pot") with "thick hunks of toast shamelessly slathered in schmaltz" and a "richly marbled steak from cult butcher Pat LaFrieda is delivered in thick slices around a brontosaurus bone with a steakhouse-caliber char."

New York Magazine's critics are getting ready for the fall restaurant season, offering up a list of the openings they are looking forward to savoring. Plus, NY Magazine has a calendar of openings.

Email This Entry


Comments (4) [rss]

"Peter Luger's has an "outstanding porterhouse, but the lights are always too bright and the service usually too gruff.""

Most people love the atmosphere there. Its not too stuffy & snobbish like the other steakhouses. And the focus is, as it should be, on the steak.

And no one out of their right mind should pay that much for good sushi.

actually i'd say stuffy and snobbish is pretty much the perfect way to describe Peter Lugers.

I agree please raw fish @ $400 per person? I do not care how good it taste I beta have an orgasm (or multiple) for that much $$. Peter Luger's waiters & bar staff have always been nice to me I guess when you are attractive it does not hurt ... and what happened to The Strip House one of the beta new steak houses (I have been to NYC's, Livingston, NJ & the one in Vegas the steak there is great:)

The waitstaff at Peter luger's is perfectly fine...after examining U.S. Grant's portrait :)

Post a comment (Comment Policy)

Tips

Get your daily dose of New York first thing in the morning from our weekday newsletter, now in beta.

About Gothamist

Gothamist is a website about New York. More

Editor: Jen Chung
Publisher: Jake Dobkin

Newsmap

newsmap.jpg

Contribute

Latest Tip:

why all the media coverage over a white woman from rockland county getting killed or murdered?
[more]

Latest Photo:

Subscribe

Use an RSS reader to stay up to date with the latest news and posts from Gothamist.

All Our RSS

Follow us