Dubai Debt Issues Push Stocks Down
Family Gets Early Christmas Gift From Ellen DeGeneres
Photos of D Train Murder Depict Bloody Panic
Stuy Pyro Leaves Notes In Hieroglyphics
Mayor: Sex Trafficking Victims, Please Speak Up
Bar Artisanal (Katie Sokoler/Gothamist)
In the Village Voice, Robert Sietsema shares an amusing account of his experience at an off-the-radar Croation restaurant inside the Rudar Soccer Club in Astoria. Dining with a dozen-plus other guys who comprise the proudly gluttonous "Wet Towel Club," he savors such dishes as grilled infant squid, with "their bulbous white foreheads and squabbly little arms nicely caramelized. Arriving at the same time was a dish of tripe and potatoes, a favorite throughout both Italy and Istria. But instead of tomato sauce, there was a bean-y veal sauce that was a little too much like the pasta sauces we'd already encountered—and the bean soup, too, come to think of it. But no one grumbled, since the sauce was beginning to seem like an old friend."
Meanwhile, the Voice's Sarah DiGregorio dines uptown by Central Park at Michael White's new restaurant Marea, which she deems "one of the most ambitious restaurants to open in some time, surely the loftiest spot so far this year. The menu is the creation of chef White (also of Alto and Convivio); he and [co-owner Chris Cannon] are clearly aiming to launch into the ranks of the four-starred, but with a tiny nod to the economic times, such as the $34 two-course lunch, casual dress code, and the option of ordering pasta as an entrée... Although the langoustine crudo is very fine, I'd avoid it unless you heat your house in the winter by burning money."
Shauna Lyon at the New Yorker is won over by the food at Minetta Tavern, where "the clipboard-clutching assistant on the sidewalk serves as an ominous reminder that reservations are nearly impossible to obtain; the fortunate few might be granted admittance to drink at the bar and hope a table opens up...But once you land a table, good things start to happen." The Post's Steve Cuozzo files a mostly-enthusiastic profile on Daniel Boulud's new Bowery burger restaurant, DBGB, which "is working out DBugs... Roast leg of lamb urgently needed sauce, jus or seasoning. Fries were limp. Salads thrilled friends just back from China who hadn't seen a leaf in a month, but left me cold. But where the flops come in dribbles, the hits come in torrents. Boulud wasn't kidding when he promised 'interesting sausage' last winter."
Danyelle Freeman at the Daily News pretty much loves Mesa Coyoacan, a new Mexican restaurant in Williamsburg: "The chef, Ivan Garcia, grew up in Coyoacan in the south of Mexico City. He worked at Barrio Chino and Mercadito Cantina, where they serve anglified Mexican, subdued for the American palate. Mesa Coyoacan is different. It's a Mexican kitchen, serving a hybrid of street food and family-style cooking. There are pork-stuffed tamales, enchiladas verdes, tacos al pastor, fried plantains, shrimp tostadas, grilled cactus and horchata. It's hard to find a good black mole sauce, but Garcia's is phenomenally flavorful."
And Time Out's Jay Cheshes has mixed feelings about the Per Se Lounge: "Sure, the food is as brilliantly executed as it is in the main dining room—the foie gras with raw almonds as lush, the butter-poached lobster with beárnaise mousseline as tender and sweet—but it loses considerable luster nibbled from a coffee table while perched uncomfortably on the lip of a couch. And the chef’s gift of drop-in access to his precious cuisine features prices that in the end don’t actually seem very charitable. In fact, the lounge menu appears to be even more of a splurge than the full Per Se blowout experience."
add to stumble upon
add to reddit
tweet this
post to facebook
Post a comment (Comment Policy)