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Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

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Macao Trading Co. (Katie Sokoler/Gothamist)
This week Frank Bruni at the Times opines on really, really, ridiculously good looking Tribeca restaurant Macao Trading Co., which serves fancy Employees Only cocktails and two versions (Portuguese and Chinese) of every dish. It's a fun read, replete with descriptions of phalluses in locked cages and the waitress who's "trying not to think about what working here is doing to my psyche." In his generous one star review, Bruni says one of his companions "put it best. 'This... is a deeply silly restaurant.'

"That’s what makes it sort of fun, and that’s what keeps it from being anything more than that. In the right mood, with the right stretch of the menu, lubricated by the right cocktails, and with the right tolerance for ear-decimating decibels, you can definitely enjoy Macao, in a minor way, especially now that it’s moved past a beginning for which clumsy is too forgiving an adjective. Macao was downright clownish out of the gate." Also in the Times Dining section this week, a survey of hummus at four Middle Eastern joints.

At the Village Voice, Robert Sietsema reviews chef Jason Neroni's hyped return to the dining scene at the super-trendy 10 Downing (photos), in Greenwich Village: "In his previous short-lived commands, Cobble Hill's Porchetta and the East Village's Cantina, Neroni was pushing pork in a big way, wreaking novel and adventuresome changes on swine. This pork provocateur seemed like an odd choice for a staid Village bistro, but he's come through with flying colors, incorporating a soupçon of wildness into what was basically a comfort-food menu." Meanwhile, Sarah DiGregorio has kind words for Butcher Bay, the cute East Village surf & turf restaurant in the former Seymour Burton space: "As a whole, the restaurant feels refreshingly unpretentious, if a bit unmemorable in design. But if you are a lobster-lover, you will remember the lobster pot pie.

NY Mag's Adam Platt coughs up one star (out of five) for both Bar Breton and Txikito. At the former, "The scallops I ordered one night were dank and bland, and the sea bass was unsettlingly fishy." As for the latter: "The menu of exotically spelled Basque finger snacks and drinking foods (the restaurant’s name means little in Euskara, and is pronounced 'chick-KEE-toe') is impressively diverse without being overstuffed. It’s also informative (did you know the Basque name for pig trotters and tripe was 'txarripatak'?) and fairly modestly priced, provided you don’t order fourteen things at once and many glasses of good, inky Tempranillo, like I did."

Jay Cheshes at Time Out NY slaps a big FAIL on the UWS Compass, which has reinvented itself as a seafood restaurant in its "latest bid to fill the bland, institutional dining room... And what of the lobsters behind the marketing scheme? The poor beasts—stuffed into bland ravioli, chopped up with far too much breading in a vapid out-of-the-shell version of a classic Thermidor, drowning in salty beurre blanc in an otherwise passable butter-poached treatment—gave their lives for no good reason."

And Steve Cuozzo at the Post, always good for a laugh, skewers the bar menu trend in his column this week: "Probably because they're traumatized over losing so much dining room and party room business, some joints are acting defensive or just plain weird about [bar menus]. A publicist for Anthos, for example, informed me that its small, new, second-floor room called Anthos Upstairs is an 'entirely separate restaurant' with 'no bar menu.' Well, excuuuuuuse us - $10 to $15 dishes from the same kitchen that turns out $38 entrees, and a booze menu touting cocktails, beer and wine by the glass, qualifies as a 'bar menu' even if it's served on the roof." But the Daily News's Danyelle Freeman loves wearing her dungarees to try the bar menu at Le Cirque.

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