Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

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Kefi (Katie Sokoler/Gothamist)
This week the Times's Frank Bruni opines on the new location of Kefi, the insaaaanely cheap Upper West Side Mediterranean restaurant from chef Michael Psilakis (Anthos, Mia Dona, Friend of Gothamist). Bruni admits he's a big fan of Psilakis, but doesn't pull punches in this surprisingly mixed review, in which he complains of "palate mononucleosis" from "runaway saltiness." And "while most dishes are satisfying in a hyper-robust way, some have at least one and usually two ingredients too many." Ultimately, Bruni thinks Kefi used to be cool, back at the original location: "There, many of the same dishes were executed with more precision and restraint. It was a lesser stage, but it was a greater one."

In the Times's "$25 and Under" column, Betsy Andrews compares and contrasts the new Manhattan outpost of Red Hook sandwich phenom Defonte's with the sandwiches at Lamazou, just six blocks away in Murray Hill. She decides, "Lamazou is a little bit country. Defonte’s is all rock ’n’ roll," while turning the new Defonte's hype-meter down a notch: "Defonte’s creates baroque combos that can be bland...the cold cuts here are run of the mill. The hot salad isn’t spicy enough." In the Village Voice, Robert Sietsema goes all bourgy at Buttermilk Channel, which typically has a wait time of two hours for a table. While he marvels at how "chef Ryan Angulo gets such bounciness out of spinach", he's not so impressed with the "Second Courses," where "the dishes are most likely to falter."

At NY Mag, Adam Platt's wife "enjoyed a lot of the food" at Braeburn in the West Village, but he's got some problems, starting with the "lilting, vaguely clichéd, bucolic-sounding name... 'This is all very New Canaan,' someone said, as we squeezed into our little wooden chairs, at our little wooden table. Nor was the generic, slightly twee vibe in the joint greatly relieved by the clientele, some of whom wore thick cable sweaters and employed bifocals to peer at their menus through the faux-candlelight gloom. But Braeburn has what most bourgeois little dining establishments in the wilds of suburban Connecticut do not. It has the services of a topflight New York City chef, Brian Bistrong."

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Casa La Femme (Katie Sokoler/Gothamist)
Danyelle Freeman at the Daily News seems thrilled to be eating in a tent at Casa La Femme (pictures), conceding that while "you can’t eat decor or the belly dancers, they both make the food taste a little better." Time Out NY's Jay Cheshes has a mixed review for midtown modern Spanish restaurant La Fonda del Sol (pictures): "Suckling pig is one of the glories of Spanish cuisine. Instead of the usual hunk of meat under crisp, burnished skin, the chef delivers a few slices of dry pig roulade—fat tragically trimmed—with mushy smoked dates."

And Alan Richman at GQ checks in on SoHo's Raoul's, which "defined a French bistro back in the 1970s, when it opened in a SoHo neighborhood littered with starving artists." He recommends a visit, but don't let them seat you in the back room: "A quick summary of the glass-enclosed back room, the so-called garden: Airless. Musty. Dreary. Occasional blasts of cooking smells venting from the kitchen. (Particularly noxious when it’s the fish.) The primary wall decoration is a chilling mural that incorporates the twin towers of the World Trade Center. This, in fact, is one of the least romantic rooms in New York, although a friend with me did point out, 'It’s so hot back here I’m thinking of getting undressed.' "

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Comments (7) [rss]

does 'insaaaanely priced' mean really expensive or really cheap, I assume it means expensive

It's actually very well-priced—many entrees are around $15 or so, and you can definitely fill up on appetizers (for a meal with my mom, I shared three appetizers—which are $9 and under—and got dessert). I do think the dishes are very savory, but I had a very nice shrimp w/orzo, tomato, feta, and spinach that had enough acidity to cut the saltiness.

Thanks, I changed it to "cheap." I guess I just assume "insaaaane" connotes good prices because of the Crazy Eddie ads. Kefi is cheap given the quality of the Psilakis's cooking.

cool, thanks for clarifying, I'm always looking for a good greek place

You're actually assuming that people who read this blog lived in NY or somewhere in the tristate area in the mid to late 80's??? The likelyhood is that they are transplants from somewhere else, loosely labeled by disgruntled locals such as myself as being from "the Midwest" to designate their non native status. My guess is atmanone is an out-of-towner. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

This is one of my favorite restaurants. The shortbreads and lamb shanks are NOT salty at all. My only complaint is that their tomato sauce (which comes with their terrific meatball appetizer), is too acidic (thus causing heartburn).

cool, thanks for clarifying, I'm always looking for a good greek place

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