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Note to fabulously good-looking, scrupulously healthy restaurant Rouge Tomate (pictured): the Times's Frank Bruni doesn't appreciate your good intentions. He opines, "In addition to a head chef with obvious talent, it employs a nutritionist, who makes certain that dishes have optimal ratios of meats to vegetables and fruits to nuts and don’t traffic recklessly in calories or the wrong fats...While about a quarter of the dishes are knockouts, at least as many are overly calculated and fastidious, suggesting there’s such a thing as too much balance. The same fruity, nutty, seedy notes pop up too often: during one meal I felt tyrannized by pomegranate, antioxidized to a fare-thee-well."
On the other hand, Danyelle Freeman at the Daily News is dazzled, bestowing four out of five stars: "Usually the thought of self-consciously healthy food makes me depressed—so depressed I get the urge to curl up with a jar of peanut butter and a spoon. But I don't feel that way at Rouge Tomate, even though they've replaced most of the fats we associate with haute cuisine...Rouge Tomate may be a prototype for a restaurant of the future—a new way of thinking, a new way of eating, a new way of dining out." And she's beguiled by Bar Bao, Michael Bao Huynh's new Vietnamese venture on the Upper West Side, but she wishes "there were more duck dishes on the menu. In fact, if I were Michael Bao, my next restaurant would be Bao Duck."
Also on the Upper West Side, Time Out NY's Jay Cheshes digs West Branch: "Sprawling and raucous with a drop-in vibe, the new spot offers good, simple food at prices even your bubbe from Boca can handle...And the fish-and-chips may in fact be the best in New York." In Greenpoint, the Times checks in on the Heath Ledger-linked Five Leaves, finding "a restaurant that could get by on looks alone...But despite the modest ambitions and reasonable prices...the kitchen, taken over recently by Ken Addington, turns out unexpectedly refined Australian comfort food. Every neighborhood should have a restaurant this welcoming, with food this rewarding."
While Robert Sietsema at the Village Voice discovers delicious South Indian vegetarian at Krishna Cuisine in Jersey City, his colleague Sarah DiGregorio warms up to Flushing's Korean barbecue joint Ga Si Ri, where "it's impossible to be cynical about the pork belly. And although you can get fish-offal casserole, which will be very exciting for some, there's something on the prolific menu for everyone—from bibimbop to kimchi jigae (tofu and kimchi stew)."
And the Posts's Steve Cuozzo has great first impressions on Kefi, Michael Psilakis's bigger iteration of his always-packed Greek restaurant. Looks like Kefi may need an even larger home: "The pent-up demand for seats in any nook or cranny shocked the house. One night...they closed down early because they literally ran out of food. With finances under siege, $6.50-$8.95 appetizers and main courses less than $15 have locals acting as giddy as starved Germans rescued by the Berlin Airlift."
Photo courtesy Katie Sokoler.
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"Frank Bruni doesn't appreciate your good intentions."
Someone needs to go back to grade school for Basic Reading Comprehension 101. Bruni absolutely DOES appreciate the good intentions. It's the inconsistent execution he objects to. Your constant attempts at inflammatory posts are really fucking tiresome. Either that or, as I said above, you have the reading comprehension of a five year old crack baby.