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This cute little brasserie is the latest venture for Chef Cyril Renaud, whose Michelin-starred restaurant Fleur de Sel is well-regarded for his approachable presentation of cuisine from Brittany, emphasizing seasonal ingredients. Hence Bar Breton, envisioned as Fleur de Sel's casual counterpart.
Located on Fifth Avenue just north of Madison Square Park, the place opened for breakfast yesterday, where options include an Omelette of Roasted Artichokes, Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Fried Salsify; and Homemade Brioche French Toast with Berries. Lunch service is expected to start Friday, with dinner starting next Tuesday. Entrees will include Potato Crusted Codfish with Bouillon of Rice, Beans and Smoked Bacon; and Bone Marrow Crusted New York Strip Steak with Shallot Confit and Red Wine Sauce. At all times you'll be able to order the signature dish: galettes, a Breton specialty consisting of thin buckwheat crêpes, filled with savory fillings, then rolled or folded and served.
The ambiance is, naturally, urban rustic, with Windsor bar stools made for the restaurant by Vermont woodworker George Ainley, a menagerie of antique chairs, and "green" accents like booth tables made from reclaimed wood. Old framed photos of Chef Renaud’s French ancestors line the walls, but the star here is the triskele-patterned chandelier featuring 280 antique glasses from the 1920s to the 1950s. (See below.)
Bar Breton // 254 Fifth Avenue (bet 28th & 29th Streets) // (212) 213-4999
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At first I thought the bar looked really nice then I started looking at the pics and damn the decor is weird.
The front of the place looks like nice at first glance then you see all the patterns, colors, and textures and it starts to look really crowded.
The back of the spot looks like an Ikea showroom.
"Green" accents? Something is either green or it's a marketing ploy. This is the latter, obvs.
Oh gee, this place sounds affordable! Recession? Pbsh.
The Bretons, who are descendants of Celtic tribes from the British Isles, are decidedly non-French.
One of their symbols is, indeed, the triskel (they spell it without the 'e' at the end). Thus, the bar is adorned with repeated triskels.
Monsieur Richard's cuisine at Fleur de Sel has some Breton influences. I am a particular fan of his signature dessert, a caramelized granny smith crepe served with a scoop of ice cream. I request it whenever I eat at Fleur de Sel, even when it isn't on the menu. To me, it is one of New York's best desserts.
I hope he will offer those wonderful shellfish platters one sees in Breton restaurants and raw bars: a multi-level celebration of crabs, oysters, mussels, lobster, snails, etc.
In contemporary Brittany, you will find dozens of creperies in every village and town. It is traditional to have cider with crepes. Richard's take on crepes is very typical of Breton chefs: find new and interesting fillings.
Just run down Broadway and 28th street to 5th avenue
if you arrive there on the R train ,that 28th street block
between Broadway and Fifth avenue at night is weird,weird,I tell you weird.