Cops Shot Far Rockaway Teen 11 Times
Video: New School Students, Comrades Toss Trash Pre-Arrest
Turkey Cruelty Ad Nixed By NBC
Would You Be Comfortable Locked On A Train With A Murderer?
Schumer: "Real Momentum" For Health Care Reform Now
This week Frank Bruni reviews Market Table (pictured), the market-and-dining venue that now only focuses on dining from chef Mikey Price (who is a principal owner along with Joey Campanaro of Little Owl). And Bruni is taken by its "warm," "soothing," "humble," "unambiguous," and "generous" cooking, attitude and style and gives it two stars. He delights in discovering how "There’s bacon with the skate wing and bacon with the brussels sprouts and pancetta with pork loin: pig upon pig."
Though prices have gone up, Bruni finds that the portions are generous and adds, "This sort of restaurant — a comfy wool blanket, emphasizing good sense over high style — doesn’t have more intrinsic merit than an acrobatic dazzler or idiosyncratic pioneer. But with winter looming in more ways than one, it has a logic and an appeal that are potent. Durable, too."
Adam Platt at NY Mag has high praise for Irving Mill's newish chef Ryan Skeen, who Platt hails as "one of the most promising young luminaries of this 'pighead' branch of haute cuisine...There’s an excellent iteration of that old French classic pig’s-head terrine, served warm so that it liquefies gently on the tip of your tongue, and a sampling of Skeen’s famous salt-and-pepper ribs (also available on the “Bites” menu), which the chef braises in a mix of sugar and soy then deep-fries to give a nice exterior crunch."
Platt also reviews Inside Park at St. Bart’s, which is located in an annex hall of Saint Bartholomew’s church on Park Avenue. Chef Matthew Weingarten's menu is generally first-rate, but "the tables were mostly empty, except for what looked like a party of parishioners dressed in tweed jackets to our right, and an elderly couple quietly sipping glasses of tap water in a distant banquette. 'We’re on the Titanic,' someone said. 'I hear the sound of the waves. I feel the tables listing gently off to the right.'"
Robert Siestema of the Village Voice heads to the "northern verge of Sunset Park's Chinatown" for MaiThai, a Thai restaurant (which doesn't have a liquor license, despite its name) with "a fascinating menu reflecting the multiplicity of cooking styles found throughout the country." While some of the dishes are uneven (or lacking in heat), overall he recommends it, in particular the lad nard noodles, whole fish and a "particularly dope" papaya salad. The New Yorker's Shauna Lyon has a mixed review of Alain Allegretti's haute-cuisine restaurant that he named after himself: "The chestnut cappelletti was filled with an indistinct mash, but the burnished duck ragout underneath, infused with sweet onion and mushroom, was heavenly." And Danyelle Freeman at the Daily News pretty much loves David Bouley's new restaurant: "Secession is pure Bouley. It's Tribeca, it's a revision of the classics, and it's a revision of his Danube—the only thing left is the Wiener schnitzel and the Klimt. Who knows what this space will be in five years? All the more reason to live in the present."
Photo of Market Table courtesy OhChiik.
add to stumble upon
add to reddit
tweet this
post to facebook
I thought Bruni had reviewed MT a long time ago. I think its two stars are well deserved.