Camera in the Kitchen: La Superior

Trio of tacos: carne asada, camaron al chipotle, and carnitas

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Roadside tacos have become a common Williamsburg fixture, with Endless Summer parked on Bedford, El Diablo behind Union Pool, and the Authentic Mexican taco truck on the southern edge of McCarren Park. Now La Superior gives Mexican road food a stationary kitchen, dishing out teeny tacos high on flavor, homemade salsas, gorditas and flautas—both staples of the street—and much more.

Portions are tapas-sized, so order extra, and start with the ezquietes: roasted corn kernels cooked with epazote leaves and tossed with a squeeze of lime, fresh cheese, and a too-generous helping of mayo. Of the tacos, the carne asada is tender and glistening, and the fiery red chipotle sauce, available on shrimp as the Camaron al chipotle, offers zing with no lack of smoke. Agua frescas—watermelon is a favorite—are the best beverage option, as La Superior doesn't have a liquor license yet.

Decor is in parts polished, in parts guerrilla: silver-stenciled wall paper adds design-chic, but red paint on opposing walls could use another coat. Service is friendly, but sometimes negligent; after being seated, the waiter took 15 minutes to return for orders. But La Superior adds welcome spice to a growing constellation of restaurants south of Grand Street in Williamsburg. Flavors are authentic, far surpassing what passes for "Mexican" at most New York restaurants.

La Superior is located at 295 Berry Street (near S. 2nd). Open Sunday through Thursday 12:30 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m.