Camera in the Kitchen: THOR

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The servers at THOR, where chef Jesi Solomon (formerly the sous chef at Stanton Social) has now taken the reins, aren't afraid to gush about the menu items they love. To hear them tell it, the Maple Brined Pork Tenderloin is “a party in your mouth,” and the veal burger lathered in foie mustard is “silky and irresistible.” Certainly they're biased, but for the most part Solomon's “modern American” menu—with seasonal highlights and gastronomic weapons like pork belly, foie gras, and truffles—lives up to the staff's breathless hype.

Delicately deviled eggs adorn a peppery spinach salad; toasted coriander vinaigrette takes the fried artichoke salad to a higher level. The veal burger, indeed silky, was heavy after the third bite; the combination of foie mustard and fries shaken with truffle salt overwhelming. Tender pork paired kindly with sweet grilled peaches, a dish to catch before the season ends in a matter of weeks.

Cocktails and dessert should not be skipped: Clear winners are the Three G’s, marrying St. Germain and grapes, and the peanut butter sundae starring warm caramelized banana and salted chocolate.

Thor is located at 107 Rivington Street near Ludlow. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 212-796-8040.