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July 23, 2008

Country Restaurant Draws Fire from DOH for Sous Vide

072308country.jpgThere was some surprise when Geoffrey Zakarian’s three star restaurant Country (pictured) was shut down by the Department of Health last Friday. But it turns out that fruit flies, mouse droppings and a fly in the Maker’s Mark were the least of its problems – the main infraction was the restaurant’s unapproved sous vide method, which Country utilizes to vacuum-seal raw meat in plastic for slow cooking at low temperatures.

The Times reports that Zakarian was forced to dump hundreds of pounds of meat before reopening last night, and the article takes an in-depth look at the controversy that’s arisen from the city’s attempt to regulate sous vide. Some chefs say they’re being required to cook at temperatures that are too high and ruin the flavor intensity. Dave Arnold, the director of culinary technology at the French Culinary Institute, says “The food code is based on what kills bacteria in very short order. Do you really have to cook it to that temperature? No. There are temperatures lower than the food code, where if you cook it long enough it will be safe.”

A Health Department rep explains that “the thing we don’t want to have happen is someone going to Best Buy and buying a vacuum-processing machine because they saw it on TV." So... that's why they shut down a top chef's three star restaurant.

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Comments (5) [rss]

So... that's why they shut down a top chef's three star restaurant.

No, they shut down the restaurant because they had a bunch of other violations as well. Said so very early in the article. Rodent droppings, a fly in wine, etc. I can't quote it right now because the Times website is having major problems.

 

That quote from the Health Official makes absolutely no sense. What does Country restaurant have to do with people buying vacuum machines because of what they see on TV?

 

Stuart Alexander is turning in his grave right now.

 

[2] It makes plenty of sense. The city has regulations regarding sous vide cooking. A restaurant must have heavily documented procedures before they can practice it. It's very clear in the article. That's why they don't want just anyone buying a cheap machine and trying to do it in any restaurant. The official never say Cafe at Country did that, he was just explaining that Country wasn't following the regulations and they can't make exceptions.

I've been doing something similar for almost 20 years at home. I've used turkey roasting bags in my crockpot, squeezing out most of the air before tying it. This was for laziness (no need to clean the pot afterward), but it also helps preserve flavors. Nowadays companies actually sell slow cooker bags.

 

The funny thing is, if they had the meat stored in the refrigerator in ziplocs, DOH wouldn't have said anything, despite the similar risk.
The whole botulism things is total BS....botulism is NOT going to breed in a refrigerator, especially in meat that is being stored for probably no more than a week. DOH should know that.

Please, DOH, illuminate me as to a SINGLE PERSON in the entire USA that has gotten ill from this technique???? Oh, sorry, there are none. But how many people have gotten salmonella recently from fresh fruit....over a 1000!!

 
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