Midweek Special: NYC Restaurant Review Roundup

The Times’s Frank Bruni reports “a mix of exciting, intriguing and frustrating moments” in his review of Elettaria (pictured), the haute-Indian restaurant in the Village. BYO rimshot because one liners abound: “Elettaria describes itself as ‘spice-driven.’ (I’m waiting for the restaurant that’s driven by Morgan Freeman.)” But seriously folks, he loves the fluke in a sauce of coconut and tapioca pearls, while other entrees prove disappointing. Still, it gets a star for the “definite peaks and curiosities, among them the costumes worn by the poignantly obliging waitresses. If Calcutta has leprechauns, they must look something like this.”

In the Voice, Robert Sietsema challenges Dr. John to a chile pepper eating contest – a reprise of their famous goat eyeball contest of Aught Five. The setting: Grand Sichuan House in Bay Ridge. The winner: Dr. John, who never broke a sweat through increasingly spicier courses, while two-time loser Sietsema succumbed to hiccups. But if you’re going to be publicly out-cooled, what better cat than Dr. John?

Also for the Voice, Sarah DiGregorio reviews Tet, a new Vietnamese restaurant in the East Village; she recommends the headcheese made from gelatinous pig ear, snout, and tongue, served on a green-papaya salad. Mmm, headcheese. The Sun’s Paul Adams visits two French brasseries, The New French downtown and Brasserie Cognac uptown, and says “both demonstrate a fine aliveness that's rarely seen in the city's crop of artfully distressed French bistros.”

The Post’s Steve Cuozzo is the latest critic to shred the re-opened Palm Court in the Plaza, calling it “hilariously horrible.” It’s a fun read: “After a gazillion-dollar reopening… the Palm Court is goofier, gloomier and only slightly more appetizing than it was before. Even the harp sounds depressing.” And the Daily News gives Bar Milano, the noisy Northern Italian place near Gramercy Park, three out of five stars; the cabbage stuffed with farro, dried currants and cherries is “a Cinderalla story.”

Photo of Elettaria courtesy Ryan Charles.