April 7, 2008
Flushing's Mulan Disappoints
For a place that bills itself as specializing in “Modern Asian Cuisine,” new Flushing restaurant Mulan seems better suited to the Epcot crowd than hardcore fans of Asian cuisine, modern or otherwise. To be fair this assessment is based upon an initial lunch and the place has been open less than a month. But as it stands now, the fare in the brand new skyscraper, Queens Crossing, is pretty ho-hum. It’s hard to believe that this stuff is coming from Malaysian-born Chef Peter How, who has cooked for Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
The crispy eel was quite tasty at first, but after two or three pieces, the sweet glaze was overwhelming; the accompanying chili sauce also erred on the side of sweetness. Something brighter and hotter with an acidic component would have turned this dish into an addictive appetizer.
Berkshire pork belly wrapped around cucumber slices was attractive and much tastier than the eel. The intermingling flavors and textures–rich fatty pork and crunchy cucumbers, tied together with a bracing hot sauce that brought to mind an amalgam of Sriracha and chipotles – was wonderful.
Sadly, the pork belly was the highlight of the meal. The most interesting thing about the duck pickle mustard fried rice noodle was the garnish of fried noodles bound together with a bit of tempura to resemble a Chinese fan. There was no pickled mustard to be found in the entire platter. Perhaps the kitchen ran out of it and decided to double up on the sautéed onions.
Chian Zan frog leg was also lackluster. There was nothing wrong with the meat, but the overall flavor of the dish was driven by a bland, gloppy sauce. Chef How might want to hit up nearby Little Pepper for some first-rate frog legs.
A restaurant in the heart of Flushing that encompasses the best of “Modern Asian Cuisine,” is something to be devoutly wished for. Hopefully Mulan will wake up and smell the fish sauce and change things up. Perhaps its management should look to one of the tag lines from the namesake Disney film for inspiration: “The flower that blooms in adversity is the most rare and beautiful of all.”
Mulan Restuarant / 136-17 39th Ave, 2nd Fl / Flushing, NY 11354 / (718) 886-8526
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Huzzah. Great photos.
Anyone who names their restaurant after a racist disney character deserves to be crap.
After a quick google search Disney got the name Mulan from an ancient Chinese poem with a girl named Hua Mulan as the heroine.
Just cause Disney made something with the same name doesn't mean they own the story.
I ate at Mulan about a month ago. I completely agree with Joe on this one. The food sucked for the amount they were charging. The Korean/Japanese place next door isn't that much better. Disappointing.
I have eaten here many times, often with my friends or my parents. I'm delighted at what an excellent restaurant it turned out to be.
Overall the food quality is excellent. It’s always cooked the way you want it, tasty, and of high quality. Personally, my favorites are any of their Lobster Bisque, Rack of Lambs, Mulan Steak was tasty, and Tofu Dumplings are very good. The tofu was very smooth and silky. The food was mouth-watering,The food was great and the prices are very good.
They do have a nice of wines and beers to choose from and the prices are reasonable.
I mostly come here because the food so tasty.
Your stomach and your wallet will thank you.
Pros: Flavorful, Reasonably priced, Charming atmosphere.
Well I and disagree with is comment I thing that mulan is a great Restaurant, We need a place like this in queens. I was there last week and I was impress with the food, the menu and the atmosphere
The prices are so affordable as well the service and the way the make you fill is unique, I dont know the chef and i will congratulate him as will Allan our server, The Chinese community fill so proud of it . I have a beautiful conversation with some of the other customers and they try to describe the food and teach me how eat it. Mulan Team Keep doing it do not hear what can not be good for you. I will have my birthday there on April the 27, they will make a special menu for me, you don't find that service any where else. I make my own menu. I will have a red carpet and special cocktails they will make the way I want for 25 per person. That is great I LOVE MULAN