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It could be argued that all pizza is by definition "ethnic," but some pizzeria fare is especially deserving of this designation. Ethnic Pizza Patrol strives to find unique cultural interpretations of this classic New York City food. Expect piping hot tips about New York City pizzerias that feature an ethnic twist on pizza or combine a pizzeria with another concept, i.e. a taco joint; or manage to do all of the above.
Once this storefront housed El Guaton, a pizzeria that showcased gutbusting Chilean sandwiches. A recent stroll down Roosevelt Ave. revealed it had been replaced by La Chonta Pizzeria. At first blush it looked like a slice joint, but a glimpse of a small list of Ecuadorean specials turned disappointment into intrigue.
La Chonta trumpets its pizzeria identity, as carefully arranged copies of Pizza Magazine indicate. That identity falls within the purview of neighborhood slice joint. As such it’s good, but one wishes the pizza would embrace the owner’s Ecuadorean heritage. Why not go whole hog and offer slices stuffed with hornado, instead of the pineapple-topped specimens sitting forlornly in the case.
Lack of creativity in the slice department was easily forgiven after ordering freshly made ceviche de camaron, a bracing chilled soup of shrimp, onions and tomato pulp. A subsequent visit on a colder day called for a hotter shrimp showcase: sango de camaron. Think of an earthy, comforting lentil soup with ground plantain standing in for lentils and plenty of shrimp.
By the way, that reddish looking veggie on the sign isn't a plum tomato. It's a chonta, a palm tree fruit native to South America. La Chonta’s proprietress says it's especially high in protein. If you’re lucky, she’ll have some ripe ones on hand to boil up and blend into a frosty shake. The golden-rod colored concoction tastes like a combination of corn and pumpkin.
La Chonta, 68-14 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside, 718-651-3179
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mmmm ¡tostones!
now i have to go visit mom
It could be argued that all food is "ethnic," since every person has an ethnicity. "Ethnic" is not a synonym of "minority."
It could be argued. Sure. But you wont.
Because you are smart enough to realize that many foods have either lost their provenance or have become all embracing of a culture as a whole.The same holds true of many people. Mr America, meet the apple pie. So unless you want to argue that American is an ethnicity of its own ...
And even so, the writer is clearly not using the word "ethnic" as a synonym of "minority".
That looks like a regular slice. What makes it ethnic?
We don't like pizza made not by Italians!
The best pizza is still made by people of Italian heritage.
We don't need this:
Crazy Asian Pizza from Slice NY
Yo, Joe! Have a heart and give us the nearest subway! It's not like this is in Manhattan where the streets are numbers.
Betcha didn't know this: A good many pizzerias are owned and operated by Albanians. This is a theme in a play called "The Resistible Rise of Fatlinda Paloka".
Most people assume they are Italians since thaey are so similar in appearance. They generally make a damn good slice.